Stringer Bedding?
#1
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Stringer Bedding?
I am nearly ready to install the stringers in my 72 Glastron (I know, it's not a perf boat) and wanted glass dave's and other opinion on bedding material. The stringers are 1" clear doug fir and due to trying to shape them, they are a little ragged on the bottom. So, I want to bed them in either poly resin and cabosil or the famed PL adhesive to get them down and straight, then follow up with regular glassing.
Which is the better product as far as cost, ease of use (I'm by myself on this project) and quality?
Thank all.
PS can't wait for Desert Storm!!!!
Which is the better product as far as cost, ease of use (I'm by myself on this project) and quality?
Thank all.
PS can't wait for Desert Storm!!!!
#2
I have been using nida corbond but cabosil works fine. Are you going to do everything at once (wet on wet) or do you want to bed the stringer down and cap it after its cured?
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Throttles- Cleveland Construction 377 Talon
08 OPA Class 1 National Champion
08 Class 1 Geico Triple Crown Champion
08 OPA High Points Champion
10 OPA Class 1 National Champion ( happy now Ed! )
Throttles- Cleveland Construction 377 Talon
08 OPA Class 1 National Champion
08 Class 1 Geico Triple Crown Champion
08 OPA High Points Champion
10 OPA Class 1 National Champion ( happy now Ed! )
#4
cool, that ads some extra work but is an easier method. When you bed the stringers in take care to do a nice even fillet in the corners, either get a fillet tool or make one (somewhere around the radius of a quarter). Trowel a nice even fillet and remove all excess, after it sets up scuff it with 36 grit by hand to de-bur the surface. This will make it easier to laminate over and will give the joint a nice even (strong) transition. I do everything wet on wet before the fillet is cured, i always felt it gives a better bond between the materials and allows the resin to blend/flow the fillet but its not a technique i would recommend to someone that has not done a thousand stringers though lol
http://www.clcboats.com/shop/product...llet-tool.html
http://www.clcboats.com/shop/product...llet-tool.html
__________________
Throttles- Cleveland Construction 377 Talon
08 OPA Class 1 National Champion
08 Class 1 Geico Triple Crown Champion
08 OPA High Points Champion
10 OPA Class 1 National Champion ( happy now Ed! )
Throttles- Cleveland Construction 377 Talon
08 OPA Class 1 National Champion
08 Class 1 Geico Triple Crown Champion
08 OPA High Points Champion
10 OPA Class 1 National Champion ( happy now Ed! )
#5
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dave whats with the lollipops ?
i like the one's the little barrel on the wrapper the most !!!!!!
but seriously i found taking a rubber body knife and cutting a radius on the corner that way it scraps the excess off at the same time.
plus not sure about cabosil but some of the fillers react with the resin and drasisticly shorten the cure time, sometimes leading the mixture firing off in the cup.
hate when that happens
i like the one's the little barrel on the wrapper the most !!!!!!
but seriously i found taking a rubber body knife and cutting a radius on the corner that way it scraps the excess off at the same time.
plus not sure about cabosil but some of the fillers react with the resin and drasisticly shorten the cure time, sometimes leading the mixture firing off in the cup.
hate when that happens
#6
Yo Dave! Was lookin for ya last year at the worlds, been a while my friend, been meaning to call. Your celly # still the same? 23#-22#-3###?
Yea i thought those lolli pop things were cute lol. Those were file photos off the net. I dont actually use either of those, i got a butt load of these reject poly knives that were kicked out of a plant somewhere in michigan mid way through the manufacturing process because of a color defect. The unfinished product is the perfect fillet knife. Got 'em from Ed up in St clair, there perfect and he's got like a couple thousand (thats a lot of fillets lol). Hey LHC, send me a self addressed stamped envelope and I'll send ya a couple
The filler in resin typically ramps up the cure time in epoxies but slows it in poly and vinylesters. At least thats what i have experienced. I have been using bedding compounds of late anyway, CorBond with a BPO cat has a pretty consistent kick time (thanks Steve1) and is much easier to deal with. With esters it is important to stick to 1% (by weight, get a cheap harbor freight scale if necessary) with the cat and work fast and in sections.
Yea i thought those lolli pop things were cute lol. Those were file photos off the net. I dont actually use either of those, i got a butt load of these reject poly knives that were kicked out of a plant somewhere in michigan mid way through the manufacturing process because of a color defect. The unfinished product is the perfect fillet knife. Got 'em from Ed up in St clair, there perfect and he's got like a couple thousand (thats a lot of fillets lol). Hey LHC, send me a self addressed stamped envelope and I'll send ya a couple
The filler in resin typically ramps up the cure time in epoxies but slows it in poly and vinylesters. At least thats what i have experienced. I have been using bedding compounds of late anyway, CorBond with a BPO cat has a pretty consistent kick time (thanks Steve1) and is much easier to deal with. With esters it is important to stick to 1% (by weight, get a cheap harbor freight scale if necessary) with the cat and work fast and in sections.
__________________
Throttles- Cleveland Construction 377 Talon
08 OPA Class 1 National Champion
08 Class 1 Geico Triple Crown Champion
08 OPA High Points Champion
10 OPA Class 1 National Champion ( happy now Ed! )
Throttles- Cleveland Construction 377 Talon
08 OPA Class 1 National Champion
08 Class 1 Geico Triple Crown Champion
08 OPA High Points Champion
10 OPA Class 1 National Champion ( happy now Ed! )
Last edited by glassdave; 03-09-2013 at 01:38 PM.
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just more time for boating!!!!!!!!
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fixx
Yo Dave! Was lookin for ya last year at the worlds, been a while my friend, been meaning to call. Your celly # still the same? 23#-22#-3###?
Yea i thought those lolli pop things were cute lol. Those were file photos off the net. I dont actually use either of those, i got a butt load of these reject poly knives that were kicked out of a plant somewhere in michigan mid way through the manufacturing process because of a color defect. The unfinished product is the perfect fillet knife. Got 'em from Ed up in St clair, there perfect and he's got like a couple thousand (thats a lot of fillets lol). Hey LHC, send me a self addressed stamped envelope and I'll send ya a couple
The filler in resin typically ramps up the cure time in epoxies but slows it in poly and vinylesters. At least thats what i have experienced. I have been using bedding compounds of late anyway, CorBond with a BPO cat has a pretty consistent kick time (thanks Steve1) and is much easier to deal with. With esters it is important to stick to 1% (by weight, get a cheap harbor freight scale if necessary) with the cat and work fast and in sections.
Yea i thought those lolli pop things were cute lol. Those were file photos off the net. I dont actually use either of those, i got a butt load of these reject poly knives that were kicked out of a plant somewhere in michigan mid way through the manufacturing process because of a color defect. The unfinished product is the perfect fillet knife. Got 'em from Ed up in St clair, there perfect and he's got like a couple thousand (thats a lot of fillets lol). Hey LHC, send me a self addressed stamped envelope and I'll send ya a couple
The filler in resin typically ramps up the cure time in epoxies but slows it in poly and vinylesters. At least thats what i have experienced. I have been using bedding compounds of late anyway, CorBond with a BPO cat has a pretty consistent kick time (thanks Steve1) and is much easier to deal with. With esters it is important to stick to 1% (by weight, get a cheap harbor freight scale if necessary) with the cat and work fast and in sections.
#9
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cool, that ads some extra work but is an easier method. When you bed the stringers in take care to do a nice even fillet in the corners, either get a fillet tool or make one (somewhere around the radius of a quarter). Trowel a nice even fillet and remove all excess, after it sets up scuff it with 36 grit by hand to de-bur the surface. This will make it easier to laminate over and will give the joint a nice even (strong) transition. I do everything wet on wet before the fillet is cured, i always felt it gives a better bond between the materials and allows the resin to blend/flow the fillet but its not a technique i would recommend to someone that has not done a thousand stringers though lol
http://www.clcboats.com/shop/product...llet-tool.html
http://www.clcboats.com/shop/product...llet-tool.html