Speaker hole
#2
Jig saw works best unless you have a hole saw that big but that could be difficult to manage. Speaker holes are pretty low tolerance as they usually have a large flange to hide any inconsistencys
__________________
Throttles- Cleveland Construction 377 Talon
08 OPA Class 1 National Champion
08 Class 1 Geico Triple Crown Champion
08 OPA High Points Champion
10 OPA Class 1 National Champion ( happy now Ed! )
Throttles- Cleveland Construction 377 Talon
08 OPA Class 1 National Champion
08 Class 1 Geico Triple Crown Champion
08 OPA High Points Champion
10 OPA Class 1 National Champion ( happy now Ed! )
#4
Roto-Zip or similar rotary cutting tool works great. I have a similar tool made by Ryobi.
Advice:
Buy and use the TILE bits for cutting fiberglass, as they are stronger than the wood bits. Ask me how I know that.
You have to go just fast enough that you don't start to burn/char the cutting material, but slow enough that you don't overheat the bit and break it. Ask me how I know that.
It helps to have three hands: two hands on the rotary tool, and a third (second person) right there with you holding the shop vacuum nozzle right behind your cut. Make sure you have the smallest filter on the shop vac, and this will save you a LOT of clean-up effort. Ask me how I know that.
Advice:
Buy and use the TILE bits for cutting fiberglass, as they are stronger than the wood bits. Ask me how I know that.
You have to go just fast enough that you don't start to burn/char the cutting material, but slow enough that you don't overheat the bit and break it. Ask me how I know that.
It helps to have three hands: two hands on the rotary tool, and a third (second person) right there with you holding the shop vacuum nozzle right behind your cut. Make sure you have the smallest filter on the shop vac, and this will save you a LOT of clean-up effort. Ask me how I know that.
#8
Registered
iTrader: (2)
I use one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-2420...words=hackzall
with these blades:
http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-49-0...ackzall+blades
Works great and that little tool has a ton of uses.
Put some blue masking tape on the area to be cut regardless of the method will prevent scratches and help reduce chipping.
http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-2420...words=hackzall
with these blades:
http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-49-0...ackzall+blades
Works great and that little tool has a ton of uses.
Put some blue masking tape on the area to be cut regardless of the method will prevent scratches and help reduce chipping.
#9
If you are cutting think fiberglass, perhaps with backer board or what-have-you; the bit will flex with the force of you moving forward on your cut. For this reason, I removed the collar guide on my particular tool so I could get the chuck holding the bit as close to the cutting surface as possible. Remember, it does not have to be perfect with speakers as you normally have a speaker bezel/cover that covers at least 3/8" beyond your cut. But check to be sure; and feel free to try the circle cutter, especially in thin fiberglass.
Also: wear goggles--not just safety glasses, but goggles. It's not only the bit you are worried about coming at you, but you want to keep that fiberglass dust out of your eyes too. A breather mask is a good idea as well.
#10
Registered
Gold Member
I could be wrong but I think most of 6 1/2 speakers fit in a 5 1/4 hole. So I use a 5 1/4 hole saw.
http://www.amazon.com/MK-Morse-AV84-.../dp/B000E8BFHU
http://www.amazon.com/MK-Morse-AV84-.../dp/B000E8BFHU