Excalibur 24 rebuild
#11
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iTrader: (5)
It's cheap, get 6 yards, and get a roll of 6-8" 1708. I've been getting some stuff from mertons supply in Worcester. It's close enough that if you call by 3 you'll have it the next day. Careful with his vinylester resin though. It kicks in the sun without mekp... Wasted a bit because if that.
#12
put about 7 hours in grinding today... did 2.5 yesterday
Previous install on the transom was very bad as the pics show.
highly recommend pferd flap discs... they are cutting this **** down about 2x as fast as the red diablo one from HD or the dewalt from lowes. 17 bucks a pop but well worth it
someone cut into my hull a little......... gotta fix that
and more cabosil over the remanents of the old transom, supposed to grind that out ya kno
Im about 80% done grinding the transom.
I wasnt going to take the stringers out but now i am after the work i have seen on the transom.
Previous install on the transom was very bad as the pics show.
highly recommend pferd flap discs... they are cutting this **** down about 2x as fast as the red diablo one from HD or the dewalt from lowes. 17 bucks a pop but well worth it
someone cut into my hull a little......... gotta fix that
and more cabosil over the remanents of the old transom, supposed to grind that out ya kno
Im about 80% done grinding the transom.
I wasnt going to take the stringers out but now i am after the work i have seen on the transom.
Last edited by sparky24; 08-13-2014 at 08:43 PM.
#14
the tabbing that was done on them is bullsh*t thats the only reason i want em out.
The big issue is can i remove the stringers with the transom out? is it safe or will the hull deform. I am only taking the stringers out to the first bulkhead
I may be grinding out the bottom of the boat quite a bit as well which is why removing the stringers concerns me a little. Take a look at the first pic thats what i am going to go back to and rebuild from there. Yes i am a glutten for pain but i dont trust any of the work that was done especially @ 75 with 500 horse under my ass
the sawzall is calling my name... i want those stringers out tomorrow by 9 am
The big issue is can i remove the stringers with the transom out? is it safe or will the hull deform. I am only taking the stringers out to the first bulkhead
I may be grinding out the bottom of the boat quite a bit as well which is why removing the stringers concerns me a little. Take a look at the first pic thats what i am going to go back to and rebuild from there. Yes i am a glutten for pain but i dont trust any of the work that was done especially @ 75 with 500 horse under my ass
the sawzall is calling my name... i want those stringers out tomorrow by 9 am
Last edited by sparky24; 08-13-2014 at 09:13 PM. Reason: pics
#15
I agree with what your saying 100% about the original layup being good enough even if it does have some wet wood in it.
What you dont know is that i payed a glass guy to redo my transom and beef up my stringers after i ripped the transom out myself. The dude ****ed up my boat big time. Take a look at the layup of the transom that is visible when i removed it, the CSM is layed over un-prepped un-grinded fiberglass.He didnt even remove the rotted wood that stuck to the back of the transom. To make matters worse every stitch of tabbing on the transom and stringers was layed over gelcoat some of the tabbing flies off when i grind it. Not only that but the tabbing is like an inch long in some spots where he got lazy.
Its going to take another 15 hours of grinding to fix his bull****, because instead of just grinding out some gelcoat around where i need to glass i have to grind out gelcoat, a ton of fiberglass and resin, and then finally the original gelcoat.
The thing that i am praying doesnt happen is my bottom cracks or something when i grind out what he layed in the bottom 'engine bed' area.
Either way, the stringers are out, now i just have a ton of grinding ahead of me. more pics tonight.
What you dont know is that i payed a glass guy to redo my transom and beef up my stringers after i ripped the transom out myself. The dude ****ed up my boat big time. Take a look at the layup of the transom that is visible when i removed it, the CSM is layed over un-prepped un-grinded fiberglass.He didnt even remove the rotted wood that stuck to the back of the transom. To make matters worse every stitch of tabbing on the transom and stringers was layed over gelcoat some of the tabbing flies off when i grind it. Not only that but the tabbing is like an inch long in some spots where he got lazy.
Its going to take another 15 hours of grinding to fix his bull****, because instead of just grinding out some gelcoat around where i need to glass i have to grind out gelcoat, a ton of fiberglass and resin, and then finally the original gelcoat.
The thing that i am praying doesnt happen is my bottom cracks or something when i grind out what he layed in the bottom 'engine bed' area.
Either way, the stringers are out, now i just have a ton of grinding ahead of me. more pics tonight.
Last edited by sparky24; 08-14-2014 at 04:13 PM.
#18
almost.... done... grinding....
found mucho delamination under stringers, grinded all that out. Stringers forward of engine compartment have no rot which is amazing8.
What is the thickest hull layup i can lay all at once? I am thinking two layers of 1708 followed by csm and 24 oz roving. Can i lay all that at once or should i do the roving after the 1708
found mucho delamination under stringers, grinded all that out. Stringers forward of engine compartment have no rot which is amazing8.
What is the thickest hull layup i can lay all at once? I am thinking two layers of 1708 followed by csm and 24 oz roving. Can i lay all that at once or should i do the roving after the 1708