scippy

iTrader: (3)

Fixx,
The approach to insulation on a larger scale by using the coffee cup analogy seems so simple yet the simple things fly right over my head......When I heated my portable
shelter I never gave thought to the speed of heat loss, but my pockets did as well as the many propane cylinder refills .........the video was cool!!

seabold236,
I would not undertake a massive overhaul with the boat on a roller trailer. you might loose strutural integraty with the whole interior framework missing
But, Dave would answer this better though............I've used Vinylester a year after expiration with no bad effects....as long as you keep at a consistant
temp below 60 or refrigerate but not freeze it it will last.........I kept mine in a unheated garage through the winter. All resins will eventually kick sooner
or later, but you can slow it down with lower temps and also shake it up aleast twice a week.
The manufacture where I buy my vinylester resin from stores it in big vats......I aked him, what if you don't sell all of it before a period of time goes by?
he answered by saying, the resin is always kept moving so it doesn't start to thicken by air hoses at the bottom by keeping it bubbling...partial answer.

seebold 236

yeah I didn't think it would be smart to cut everything out just wanted a second opinion. I'm glad to hear the resin will last until spring. Should I leave it sealed in the pail until it gets warm out? Or is it OK to use some for the smaller things that I can do in my garage?

scippy

iTrader: (3)

My garage is about 60* I used a heat lamp on a small project (laminated 3 pieces 3/4" ply for transom) to remove any doubt that the resin would kick right.
so you can fiberglass as long as the temps are constant and are above 60*........Always try to minimize the air space when storing resin.......I bought a 5 gal.
pail of vinylester resin used up 4 gals. quickly, but didn't leave the remainder in the pail I put it in a 1 gal. jug just to keep as much air out as possible.

seebold 236

Rite now I have the stringers and bulkhead out and the hull ground clean, is it smart to remove the transom at this point? If its safe to remove it would give me a good jump on rebuilding in the spring when it gets warm.

photobucket.com/user/seebold236/media/IMG_20131009_205936_506_zpsf2ff032c.jpg.html

Thanks for all the help and info, its a huge help

c_deezy

iTrader: (1)

Your link wasn't working. Here is the picture:

http://i1272.photobucket.com/albums/...psf2ff032c.jpg

seebold 236

Thanks, I didn't think it was working tried like 10 times dam smart phone.

scippy

iTrader: (3)

If your deck is still on than I don't think you'll have a problem removing the wood from the transom........you just don't want anything
to flex out of shape!

phragle

iTrader: (3)

you need to support the bottom of the boat... the rollers will put uneven pressure on the bottom and without stringer if it sits a while it will get waves

seebold 236

I was afraid of that. I had planned on getting this done before it got cold but that didn't work. How should I support the boat for winter so it stays straight?

sparky24

you could block the boat and support it with 2x8's on the sides of the V like a bunk trailer. Pain in the ass though