27PC Transom Repair
10-29-2014, 05:35 AM
#11
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I think a good thing (for AllDodge) to do at this point would be to make a cardboard template of the full transom to see if it will actually fit through the opening to the engine compartment. If it won't fit, then it is onto 'Plan B'. . .
Last edited by tpenfield; 10-29-2014 at 09:58 AM.
10-30-2014, 07:15 PM
#12
Sorry guys, had some friends show up (been waiting for them) to help me tear apart parts of my deck and redo. Been a heck of a job, deck has need here since 1969 and some of the wood on the under side needed replaced. Still have more to do and got the big stuff done.
The issues I'm running into are access (main point) and secondary is it appears 75 percent of the transom is solid. and third I'm having a heck of a time just getting any of the good transom out. The stuff which has no rot is like a brick. Got a new Rigid oscillating tool and it barely makes a dent. Tool says don't push to had so I'm not but maybe need to push more. Will probably get back into to if fully in a few more days.
Sure appreciate all the input good, bad, a different, never done anything like this before by my self.
The issues I'm running into are access (main point) and secondary is it appears 75 percent of the transom is solid. and third I'm having a heck of a time just getting any of the good transom out. The stuff which has no rot is like a brick. Got a new Rigid oscillating tool and it barely makes a dent. Tool says don't push to had so I'm not but maybe need to push more. Will probably get back into to if fully in a few more days.
Sure appreciate all the input good, bad, a different, never done anything like this before by my self.
10-31-2014, 07:06 AM
#13
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Yup, same here. 85-90% of my transom was perfect dry and solid. I used a combination of Circular saw, 7" and 4" grinders, and my oscillating saw, some times 1" at a time to get it all out. If there is no way to get a one piece transom in the hole, you could cut off the last 6" or so of the deck cap, slide the transom in and glass the cap back on, obviously that would require some exterior gel coat work, but you would then have a good solid transom that you can rely on.
(Sent from GlassDaves future Chicagoland location)
(Sent from GlassDaves future Chicagoland location)
11-02-2014, 01:01 PM
#14
Haven't done much with the transom, been working on the homes deck, will get back with it soon.
Took an 8ft 2x4 and tried to put it in the engine compartment, this cannot be done. Hatch opening at widest part is 4' 4", at widest angle came to 5ft. Engine stringers are 2' 6" apart. So no matter if I remove the entire transom or part of it, the transom will go back together in pieces. I'm leaning right now for partial replacement. Would be nice if I had a go fast or runabout because there would be plenty of room, on this cruiser there is little.
Took an 8ft 2x4 and tried to put it in the engine compartment, this cannot be done. Hatch opening at widest part is 4' 4", at widest angle came to 5ft. Engine stringers are 2' 6" apart. So no matter if I remove the entire transom or part of it, the transom will go back together in pieces. I'm leaning right now for partial replacement. Would be nice if I had a go fast or runabout because there would be plenty of room, on this cruiser there is little.
11-02-2014, 03:55 PM
#15
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I've read and saw illustrated a full transom replace in the reverse order of things from outside the boat.........think of how much eassier that would be in your case. If your interested to know more I'll refer to the book I read it from...............let me know!
11-02-2014, 05:40 PM
#16
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something to consider and I encourage GlassDaves feedback on this
I am not a big fan of partial replacements either but in this situation I think there is something to consider.
From the bottom of the transom up to the top 1/3 of the transom assembly cutout is a leveraged inward force be applied.And the top 1/3rd pf the hole is a outward pulling force,
The upper portion is still quite solid . So if you just replaced the bottom 2 feet of the wood where the majority of the force is being applied and glassed the new wood in heavily to the stringers. I think that would be a very solid partial replacement.
What do you think?
I am not a big fan of partial replacements either but in this situation I think there is something to consider.
From the bottom of the transom up to the top 1/3 of the transom assembly cutout is a leveraged inward force be applied.And the top 1/3rd pf the hole is a outward pulling force,
The upper portion is still quite solid . So if you just replaced the bottom 2 feet of the wood where the majority of the force is being applied and glassed the new wood in heavily to the stringers. I think that would be a very solid partial replacement.
What do you think?
11-02-2014, 06:45 PM
#18
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Just picture a lower narrower hull say as wide as your stringers and as high as your outdrive cutout. Everything else around that dimension is simply excess.Yea you are gaining strength from the transom tying into the sides but the majority of the inward force is be transferred to the stringers.
Last edited by tommymonza; 11-02-2014 at 06:49 PM.
11-02-2014, 06:55 PM
#19
Or cutting up your deck
Just picture a lower narrower hull say as wide as your stringers and as high as your outdrive cutout. Everything else around that dimension is simply excess.Yea you are gaining strength from the transom tying into the sides but the majority of the inward force is be transferred to the stringers.
Just picture a lower narrower hull say as wide as your stringers and as high as your outdrive cutout. Everything else around that dimension is simply excess.Yea you are gaining strength from the transom tying into the sides but the majority of the inward force is be transferred to the stringers.
