AllDodge

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Tommy, would like to figure out how many sheets of plywood Formula used. Have yet to find anything which comes apart at a seem, they must use a very good process. There is all kinds of stainless steel screws holding all the layers together. It's raining today so I stopped working on the deck and back to the boat. Need to get some more blades for my multitool. Took some moisture readings

Starboard side on top


Starboard side in wood next to outer skin


Port side down low


Starboard side down low

Unlimited jd

iTrader: (5)

Everything I've seen was 2 layers of 3/4"

AllDodge

iTrader: (1)

Took a pic of the transom thickness in the other thread and it was 2 1/4 counting both layers of glass. Don't know what the finish thickness of marine plywood is but may be 3 layers of 5/8's maybe. Don't know

sparky24

use a mason stone wheel on a grinder to cut the fiberglass, it cuts it like butter. make sure you have a gaurd on the grinder though the things are pretty dangerous. The easiest way i found to get the wood out was to set my skil saw as deep as i dared go and cut a checkerboard across the whole transom then use your pry bar popping out the squares.

good luck. it sucks big time

glassdave

iTrader: (1)

two layers of 3/4" is standard thickness and three layers of half is what i would use for a high performance or race layup. Three layers of 5/8ths would be unnecessarily thick and would actually pull some of the splines out of the coupler. Something to keep in mind, because you have some clearance and access issues it is possible to use the three layers of half and section the panels in (think parquet floor) you have to be creative but it is a technique that might get ya out of a jam if a full piece just wont fit in the opening

AllDodge

iTrader: (1)

Three layers of half is it, thanks. Just read through Merc's installation manual and it confirms transom shall be 2 to 2/14 inch finished thickness, with a flatness of +/- 1/8. Current plan will be to step cut the old plywood then match up new plywood and epoxy them together as Tommy mentioned. If any piecing is used, will put them on the outboard side of the engine stringers.

tpenfield

Sounds like you are getting your arms around this one. Post some more pic when you can. Are you still making progress on the engine work ?

AllDodge

iTrader: (1)

Sorry forgot all about replying, yep the engine is in process, I updated it

Got back into the transom and after many hours I managed to get the starboard side down to mostly glass. It has been a real bear to get the wood off the glass, it's stuck real good. Rad into screws about every 6 or 8 (both sides) inches which Formula used to hold all the layers together. Once I get the port side down to the same level I'll start trying to sand and clean of the edges. I'm thinking of using a router to step the layers down with maybe 1/2 at a time. From what I understand from listening to you guys this would be a plan. Over in the far corner the moisture reading was 16, not bad.

AllDodge

iTrader: (1)

There is The Good, The Bad and The Ugly
The Bad--- Started cutting into the port side and found the top plywood under the floor soaking wet, and a black from rot.



The Ugly --- Continued to cut out the floor and find more water and rot. This pic is real fuzzy but it shows rot on top of the foam.



Some of the rotting soaked wood.


The good --- While the wood inside all needs replaced, everything thing else is encapsulated in glass.




Still plan in drilling some holes into the bulk head just to check moisture, but the only discoloration is where the water was sitting. Cleaning a spot off were the black was looks pink after it is removed under the glass. I think this was caused by me and my dogs. When we go out and float the dogs go up and down as they want. When they come back aboard (which happens often) they shake the water off and some of it makes it through the hatch. Many times I opened the hatch and saw some water on each side but didn't pay much attention to it figuring it drains away. Well this is also where the batteries, hoses and cables are screwed into the deck. Over time the water made it's way though those screw holes. There was about a gallon of standing water.

Now time for some clean up and a plan to put it all back together.

tpenfield

Usually . . . the further up from the keel you go the less moisture you find. So, it may be water from the deck as you described, I guess over 20 years it can add up. The 'short shots' of foam in those chambers that can be seen in the pictures certainly do not help much as it creates a moisture chamber of sorts and the wood surfaces inside the chambers would have no protection from it.

I guess you are into the 'scope creep' phase. . . a similar place that I was at last year with my F-330. If you find moisture in the main bulkhead, things could get real interesting. Is the fuel tank along the keel in the PC line, similar to the Sun Sport and Fastechs? or is it raised up somewhat?