ManajaTwa43

Im sure there's already several threads on this, so if someone just wants to link me that would great as well. Triple engine scarab with a few soft spots in the ass. Not all bad though. Is there any form of repair that doesn't involve an entire transom refit, but will just address the problem areas? Any help is greatly appreciated!

Diamond Dave

I've done a lot of reading about rot here on all types of boats and you will be getting a lot of responses that tell you to replace the whole transom. From what I gather, it is easier labor wise and better off in the long run in case you missed some or cobbled it back together improperly. I do not speak from experience however but it's better to do it right once than to do it twice...

glassdave

iTrader: (1)

yep . . . true dat. You can wrap up a lot of hours trying to do a partial repair. in the long run if you have more the one or two problem areas (which I would bet you do) your better off hour for hour just doing the whole transom.

ManajaTwa43

Thanks for the advice guys, I've been doing quite a bit of research and heard of some guys doing injections into the rear of the transom in several different spots. Not entirely sure whats being injected, but anyone have any input on this?

glassdave

iTrader: (1)

yeah, it may work for a little while on a fishing boat . . . maybe. With three drives hanging off the back its not a chance you want to take. If there is rot there is moisture and nothing will stick to wet shredded wood. It is also a pain in the azz to deal with that crap when you do have to put a new transom in.

ManajaTwa43

Thanks Dave, well looks like we might get to go boating next year..... Thinking about dropping a motor and drive entirely if we have to do the work anyway.....

glassdave

iTrader: (1)

the other thing to consider is if you can find a few soft spots by passive means there is two to three times that hiding. Rot is rarely an isolated problem and Wellcrafts build quality sometimes dictates it. I think the 43's were pretty good boats with twins as long as its Speedmasters, staggered fours or fives at a minimum. Sorry for giving you bad news. Is your boat currently disassembled?

gunny

what sort of turn around time and basic expense would be tied up in a professional doing a job of this magnitude dave. and do you allow anyone to work along side of or under your guidance in any circumstances on project's they may have.. say for instance would you consider taking on a transom replacement and allowing the owner to jump in and get his hands dirty. removing etc. cutting etc. and just have a professional lay up the glass...say if you were working on something with like a 9 foot beam. and all the rot was removed.. maybe have to scarf a couple stringer's into the old/new.

flashgordon

hello...had same issues...i was going to try to spot repair my transom,,,
but after i started to cut it apart..it was unreal the amount of rot in there...
take a look at my photos...

i ended up replacing transom all three stringers....

dont trust a moisture meter either,,,
my transom read 15-18....yea...dry rotted wooded no moisture equal no strenght....tell em glassdave

glassdave

iTrader: (1)

I've talked a lot of guys through transom jobs, its really more grunt work then anything. If someone wanted to do 100% of the cutting and grinding and all i did was resin and fabric it would be roughly fifteen hundred plus materials, transom only with no stringer involvement other then capping the reliefs back on. By contrast the transom replacement would be aprox fifty five hundred and thats with the boat brought in with bilge completely de rigged. Roller coat of heavy white gel at the end. I have done entire jobs with the owner completely hands off that were in the ten to fifteen thousand range (broad range, stuff breaks or is corroded and I aint paying for it lol)


Scarabs were some of the worst i have had in, when they go . . . . they go lol