sparky24

Any reason not to use awlgrip on an outdrive? I would think it would be the best thing to use... I have some awlgrip epoxy primer i got for free so I figure il just order a quart of jet black awlgrip and be done with it.

Cory H

Should prime bare metal first with Zinc Chromate primer.

Griff

I had my lowers painted with awlgrip. They got some small blistering after being in the water for 5 -6 days.

Rattlesnake Jake

iTrader: (2)

What does Mercury paint the new ones with. I know it's not the same as what they sell in a rattle can.

Gimme Fuel

I used a couple spray cans of Rustoleum Black Appliance Epoxy. Primed any bare areas with etching primer. Has held up amazingly well over past several years.

airjunky

iTrader: (2)

The rattle can paint now is a low voc acrylic not as good as it used to be it seems but still decent. Almost impossible go get down nicely from the can though.i usually just take freon can tap extract it and lay it down with a real gun at 15psi with a small tip . The el cheapo walmart gun someone gave me works best with that stuff 3 part single stage is better if you can find it in phantom black .

BUP

iTrader: (9)

Mercruiser uses EDP and Phantom black paint. But really their paint & process is a long one also to combat corrosion. You can buy them in a rattle can from Merc or a dealer. I have a bunch as well.

Tinkerer

IMRON will hold up forever. Unless you hit something solid.

Keith Atlanta

Sandblast the drive to get rid of all corrosion. Use the Mueller green primer that they sell at most Merc dealers. Put on 2 coats of Phantom Black within 20 minutes.

Run it, it will last forever. It is all in the preparation. You do a crappy job it wont last. If you do a good job, it will last a while.

Mine blisterd around the upper water pickup. I assume it was from the inside out and it wasnt that bad. Again, its all in the preparation.

Too Stroked

True statement even though it grossly over-simplifies the factory preparation, primer and painting processes. Most folks have absolutely no idea just how complicated the factory painting process is - but that's why it lasts so long. Oh, and you simply cannot duplicate all aspects of the factory paint - even in a collision shop. You may get something to look good, but it will not perform (especially from a corrosion resistance standpoint) as well as the factory paint. And as for any rattle can paint, you won't even come close.

My 1992 Mercury 200 outboard is almost all original paint and still looks great. Of course it's run in 100% fresh water too. But, if you scratch the factory paint and get through the primer - especially of you run in salt water - you're all done as the corrosion will continue to creep under the good paint.

I should note that my gear case was repainted (in Imron) almost 20 years ago and still looks awesome.