Drilling thru gelcoat
#12
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Thread Starter
Lots of excellent replies. Thx guys!
I like the idea of starting out in reverse. Makes good sense.
Is it OK the use the brad point drill bits with a small pilot hole?
If I drill from both sides I'll definitely need a pilot hole.
Not sure yet how good the access will be from the bilge.
I may have to drill from the outside only.
I like the idea of starting out in reverse. Makes good sense.
Is it OK the use the brad point drill bits with a small pilot hole?
If I drill from both sides I'll definitely need a pilot hole.
Not sure yet how good the access will be from the bilge.
I may have to drill from the outside only.
#13
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Sandown, NH - Sebago Lake Region, ME
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It's pretty straight forward and you don't need any special bits other than a sharp one!
#14
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[ATTACH=CONFIG]552129[/ATTACH]
I took the advice of running the bit ( or hole saw in my case) backwoods for the first 1/16 to 1/8" depth. I also put blue masking tape to help protect the gel. Came out PERFECT!! I was even surprised.
I relocated my fuel gauge off my dash.
I took the advice of running the bit ( or hole saw in my case) backwoods for the first 1/16 to 1/8" depth. I also put blue masking tape to help protect the gel. Came out PERFECT!! I was even surprised.
I relocated my fuel gauge off my dash.
#18
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You rebuild the hull? What speed were you running with what power? What you hope for speed when you get it dialed in?
#19
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It's pretty much all been covered but an extra bit I've learned over the years with holesaws is once you've drilled your 1/4" pilot hole use a piece of 1/4" round stock in place of the drill bit on the holesaw arbor. This eliminates the wobbly hole effect because with a drill bit in the arbor it's trying to dig the entire time. With the 1/4" round stock it'll keep the hole a perfect circle.