Magicezy
#1
Registered
Thread Starter
Magicezy
Has anyone tried this stuff for cosmetic hairline cracks?
http://www.magicezy.com/products/hairline-fix/
http://www.magicezy.com/products/hairline-fix/
#3
its actually cyanoacrylate or CA . . . . or simply CrazyGlue and yeah it does work but it a temporary fix at best. If you want to buy it locally just get the cheapest stuff you can find at either Dollar General or Harbor Freight. It truck to using it is to . . .
sand the surface to about 220
get a small piece of wet dry sandpaper that you can wrap around your finger or fold so it cups your finger. (with the back side or yellow side out)
put a few drops on the sandpaper and smear in circles over the stressed area till its spread out evenly, dont try to do it all at once and work few sq/in at a time
you can smear it till it dries out a bit or just smear it smooth and give it a few minutes to dry.
sand smooth with 320 and spot prime or go right to paint.
This method has been around for years and actually does work to a limit but i would not use it for any type of proper repair. It works for small stuff like those little spiders that sometimes surround snaps. Oddly enough the cheaper CA from HF or DG works best. Once you get the hang of it it is a handy trick that even works on settling down repairs on urethane car bumpers to. Be sure to use the back side of the sandpaper to apply it, the sandpaper side of it cranks up an exotherm that will glue it right to you finger in a split second . . . ask me how i know that lol
sand the surface to about 220
get a small piece of wet dry sandpaper that you can wrap around your finger or fold so it cups your finger. (with the back side or yellow side out)
put a few drops on the sandpaper and smear in circles over the stressed area till its spread out evenly, dont try to do it all at once and work few sq/in at a time
you can smear it till it dries out a bit or just smear it smooth and give it a few minutes to dry.
sand smooth with 320 and spot prime or go right to paint.
This method has been around for years and actually does work to a limit but i would not use it for any type of proper repair. It works for small stuff like those little spiders that sometimes surround snaps. Oddly enough the cheaper CA from HF or DG works best. Once you get the hang of it it is a handy trick that even works on settling down repairs on urethane car bumpers to. Be sure to use the back side of the sandpaper to apply it, the sandpaper side of it cranks up an exotherm that will glue it right to you finger in a split second . . . ask me how i know that lol
__________________
Throttles- Cleveland Construction 377 Talon
08 OPA Class 1 National Champion
08 Class 1 Geico Triple Crown Champion
08 OPA High Points Champion
10 OPA Class 1 National Champion ( happy now Ed! )
Throttles- Cleveland Construction 377 Talon
08 OPA Class 1 National Champion
08 Class 1 Geico Triple Crown Champion
08 OPA High Points Champion
10 OPA Class 1 National Champion ( happy now Ed! )
#4
just watched that video . . . .by the way that is probably a gel type crazy glue . . . but plain 'ol crazy glue none the less. . . . for $24.95 . . . . god i hate bullsh!t marketing
__________________
Throttles- Cleveland Construction 377 Talon
08 OPA Class 1 National Champion
08 Class 1 Geico Triple Crown Champion
08 OPA High Points Champion
10 OPA Class 1 National Champion ( happy now Ed! )
Throttles- Cleveland Construction 377 Talon
08 OPA Class 1 National Champion
08 Class 1 Geico Triple Crown Champion
08 OPA High Points Champion
10 OPA Class 1 National Champion ( happy now Ed! )
#5
Registered
its actually cyanoacrylate or CA . . . . or simply CrazyGlue and yeah it does work but it a temporary fix at best. If you want to buy it locally just get the cheapest stuff you can find at either Dollar General or Harbor Freight. It truck to using it is to . . .
sand the surface to about 220
get a small piece of wet dry sandpaper that you can wrap around your finger or fold so it cups your finger. (with the back side or yellow side out)
put a few drops on the sandpaper and smear in circles over the stressed area till its spread out evenly, dont try to do it all at once and work few sq/in at a time
you can smear it till it dries out a bit or just smear it smooth and give it a few minutes to dry.
sand smooth with 320 and spot prime or go right to paint.
This method has been around for years and actually does work to a limit but i would not use it for any type of proper repair. It works for small stuff like those little spiders that sometimes surround snaps. Oddly enough the cheaper CA from HF or DG works best. Once you get the hang of it it is a handy trick that even works on settling down repairs on urethane car bumpers to. Be sure to use the back side of the sandpaper to apply it, the sandpaper side of it cranks up an exotherm that will glue it right to you finger in a split second . . . ask me how i know that lol
sand the surface to about 220
get a small piece of wet dry sandpaper that you can wrap around your finger or fold so it cups your finger. (with the back side or yellow side out)
put a few drops on the sandpaper and smear in circles over the stressed area till its spread out evenly, dont try to do it all at once and work few sq/in at a time
you can smear it till it dries out a bit or just smear it smooth and give it a few minutes to dry.
sand smooth with 320 and spot prime or go right to paint.
This method has been around for years and actually does work to a limit but i would not use it for any type of proper repair. It works for small stuff like those little spiders that sometimes surround snaps. Oddly enough the cheaper CA from HF or DG works best. Once you get the hang of it it is a handy trick that even works on settling down repairs on urethane car bumpers to. Be sure to use the back side of the sandpaper to apply it, the sandpaper side of it cranks up an exotherm that will glue it right to you finger in a split second . . . ask me how i know that lol
#6
Registered
Well it wasn’t gel, but it worked pretty well. Will have to see once its cured, but filled in a couple hairline spider cracks to keep the dirt out at least. I still have to buff it out, but it needs to cure fully first.