Rippem

the main bunks are in the right place, they just need to be flat-topped and moved in an inch or more. Thats where they are designed to carry the boat, and the hull wants to be carried.

I'll say it again...that is the wrong length trailer!
Doesn't anybody else see this???

Jeez, fill this guy in while he still might have a chance to swap it back for the next longer one and before he modifies it!

handfulz28

The trailer overall is the right trailer, it's the parts that are bolted to it that aren't right
I've been dealing with the sales guy/middleman, but I finally found the number to the shop and talked to the actual builder. He's going to look at those pictures tonight and we're gonna get some resolution soon.
The first big change is a new winch stand, built at a 45 degree angle instead of the 19 currently. That will give me more room to bring the boat forward. Then we'll figure out where to put to bow stop so as not to get in the way of the bow eye.
As for the main bunks, I think it would be fine however it's done. IMHO, the ideal situation would be to move them out so the strakes squeeze in between and keep the boat perfect every time. The biggest problem with that is the bunks have to be moved higher, which means removing, redrilling, and possibly having the bunk too high in it's own mount.
So the next best option is moving them in. They only need to go in a few inches, and while I perfectly respect the lateral CG perspective, I don't think it'll teeter like a top on that setup. Mopower shared his pic like that and has been running for years so I think it's reasonable.
I'm a little disappointed with the guideposts. They're adjusted as wide as they'll go, but they left a nasty mark down my rubrail. They barely miss the rail at the stern when loaded, but the boat is wider midship. Not sure what to do about that. The round PVC is mounted on square tubing. I wonder if the PVC would spin on a round tubed metal post?
As for tie downs, I'll be mounting eye bolts at the rear of the bunks once I figure out exactly how it'll sit. And I was looking at it yesterday, and I think I'll get them to make an eye attachment rearward of the bow eye so I can strap or chain the boat from moving forward. I've been strapping down my racecars and motorcycles for 10yrs now, so I appreciate the idea of a properly tied down load
Thanks guys for staying interested, I promise it'll get done perfect before I go any distance on it.
Thanks,
Michael

Rippem

OK. if you can get the boat ahead at least 1' with a new winch stand you might make it work in terms of tounge wieght. Make sure your drawbar hieght sets the trailer level over it's length on level ground. You'd be amazed what a 2" to high ball hieght will do to your tounge wieght with an azz-heavy load like a twin side by side engined boat.

happy to hear you know where the bunks need to be and cut. Flat 'em and move 'em in 1.5 inches. If you want to leave em angle cut and run them in against the V...be aware this is not the best load bearing on the bottom! Plus it won't be right because of how the deadrise changes going forward. Flat and carrying on the flat of the strake will contact and carry more of the boat as it goes forward!

as far as the guideposts, yes the PVC will spin around round tubing. Mine were that way with a PVC cap at the top pop riveted in place.
Wrap them in bunk type carpet and use zip ties or clear packaging tape to hold it. Been there/ done that also. NEVER left a mark and that was on a boat/rubrail with a white vinyl insert

handfulz28

Thanks Rip, and I hear you on the load bearing aspect. But I look at the Mycos and Eagles and such, and they're all built in the shape of the V and don't carry the weight on that strake. Not that my trailer can come anywhere near one of those. I guess my biggest problem, is how much freaking work it's gonna take to pull off the carpet and either flip 'em or cut 'em down. I shouldn't have to do that much to get it right. Also gonna be difficult since I have to find a place to put the boat while I do this stuff. Maybe this will be my excuse to get the hull wet sanded..that would give me a few days to get it worked out.
And yes, I've been studying the change in shape of the hull over it's length, and I think where the main bunks are now, plus getting the boat forward a little more, would actually keep the bunks under the straightest/constant section, regardless of where they're final resting place will be

Thanks,
Michael

propwash

Handfulz, I think all you need to do is move your bunks out all the way to the sides of the trailer in the back and winch it up tight and you should be good to go. I have a similar trailer 311 and pulls fine. I have about 6 foot between the bunks. Propwash

wantsa311

My trailer is set up just like Mopowers only the angle on the top of the bunk is the same as the hull. I don't trailer alot, but I towed it from NewJersey to Michigan when I bought it and it travelled fine. Loading and launching are no problem either.

handfulz28

With my prop testing and what not recently, I also had a chance to mess with the trailer.
I tried going wide with the bunks, not enough trailer width. So now I moved 'em in and it sits just like Mopower's. I moved the winch platform a little higher on the stand and that seems to be working ok.
But I think I'm going to end up flattening the tops and running the boat on the flats of the strakes. I figure I can just run a circular saw down the length, removing the carpet first off course
I'm really still learning how to launch and retrieve this thing, so I'm no expert. But what freaks me out is how the boat pivots/rocks on the trailer when transitioning between the ramp and flat surface. I know it's because there's too much weight over the rear of the trailer; only way to fix is a longer trailer.
And I'm also having trouble getting it all the way to the bow stop. Even if I winch the eye to the roller, once I get it on flat land the bow is no longer resting on it.
I know, ideally I need the longer trailer. At this point I don't know what it'll take to get one out of the manufacturer. But I'm going to try.
Thanks,
Michael

Rippem

you're not winching it tight enough to the stop. Those seat-belt material straps stretch ALOT. Get after that handle and stretch it on the spool! It'll stop letting it back by stretch after a while. Or just get a real winch strap from Champion trailer supply. I did after the cheesy one broke right behind the hook where it's stitched coming up a steep ramp.

I'm glad you have seen the light on the set-up. Good luck.

randy carlson

micheal, just curious on your having trouble getting your bow up to eye/stop, I had to play with mine when I first got it as far as loading and getting it tight so when I pulled out it stayed. I found that putting trailer further into water so that I actually float boat to stop and just tighten it up with winch gave me the best results.second thing if you loosen winch sitting level does trailer flex away from bow? ie winch set proper height just trying to help Randy

handfulz28

Hey Randy, all help appreciated and suggestions noted
I think I've been messing with a lot of things that are kinda related. When I change how the boat sits on the main bunks, the bow eye position relative to the roller changes. If I try to mess with the forward centering bunks, it changes again.
I guess since it was so "off" when I got it, I really had no sense of where it should be. Guess you could say I'm still playing with it
I think where I've got the winch now will be about right. I've got it right about level with the bow eye so it's only pulling straight, no flex up or down. I think when I flatten the main bunks, the boat will sit a little lower in the rear, angle up a tad in the front, and I'll be able to raise the winch a little higher which will get me forward; we're talking inches here.
I'm still toying with different techniques for retrieving. When I dunked it deep is when I had the hardest time keeping it forward. This last time I kept it out so I had to actually drive the boat on a lot further. The fwd centering bunks did a better job and this time it actually put a little weight on the bow stop.
As for flattening my main bunk tops, I wonder if I'm actually going to have to take them off to run them through a nice straight table saw. Don't know where I'd find a straight edge long enough to just run the circ saw down 'em.
Thanks,
Michael