Treads

On my 292, the access is under the rear seat, and an access cover in the floor is right over the sending unit. I believe on the other models (272 and 242) the access is limited, but I don't think you should have a problem on your 311.

wantsa311

You can't get it out from the engine compartment. I took off my rear seat cushions and used a 3 inch hole saw to cut a hole through the seat bottom right above the sending unit.

It came out perfect; looks like a factory access hole. With the seat cushions back on you can't even see the hole.

sector

When I changed my gauges to Gaffrig on my 311 I was able to pull the old fuel sender out part way then cut it in two and remove it. The new Gaffrig sender did not have the old style float arm and went in with no problem. You do have to run a separate ignition powered wire to the new sender in addition to the original sender and ground wires.
I would appreciate any input from someone who has changed their rub rail to white or white/stainless as to what brand they used. I'd like to change mine but it has to look right and cover where the original was.

MOERON

Don,

I purchased the stainless online but they emailed me and told me it woukd need to be cut down (6' to 8' sections) and the delivery charge changed alot +$45 did they cut this into smaller sections for you and if so did it still work well?

Thanks

Iggy

I believe that's what's holding the two halves together. Since there is no internal access the rivets were an easy solution.
Also the upper section bears all the weight while the bottom just carries water and exhaust. No need for high strength like a hull to deck joint.

SeaWeasel

I see the rub-rail hardware is #8 . . . what length? The Fountain dealer at LOTO sells rubrail in 20ft sections and I am going to do mine this spring. So, I gotta buy a couple of pounds of SS . . . but don't know what length to get. Thanks.

Maritime_Eng

Well I bought mine and had it shipped to a marina that I am good friends with and they brought it in on a truck so it was not cut down. It should work for you thought just make sure that the ends are cut square and clean so they match up.

Maritime_Eng

Depends on what you are trying to do. Are you replacing the rubrail or just installing the S.S. cap?

MOERON

Don,

I got the Stainless you told me to get (hollow back 3/4") what length screws did you use and how did you bend it around the corners (any heat applied) this is thicker than I was expecting.

Thanks

Maritime_Eng

I used screws that were about 1.5 inches long. Pre drill the rubrail all the way though so the stainless actually mounts to the boat instead of the rubrail. No heat needed it wont do any good. Just use slow and steady pressure to wrap around the corners.