Port engine ready for the heads to come off, and starboard engine waiting in the wings. These are from 2 days ago; the starboard engine has just about caught up now. Man! EVERYTHING on these engines is heavy! I took about 200 pounds of mounts, brackets and heat exchangers to the media blasters to get stripped.
The Admiral has been flat-out in the bilge all day, filling in all the old screw holes with West System epoxy and filler. We may be able to start painting in a day or two.
RedDog - What did you bond your diamond plat to as a backing? It looks like you re-used the factory edging, too? I bought stainless steel valves for my strainers, too. (Strainers were already in, though...) Most of the boat's being built from the McMaster-Carr catalog.
Chuck
Are those your motors? I thought the Volvo stuff was painted all grey?
Formula 382 w/600 Innovations; 28 Batboat w/Ilmor 725 Indy
Quote:
Originally Posted by PhantomChaos
Chuck
Are those your motors? I thought the Volvo stuff was painted all grey?
The Performance Series were all black, except for red valve covers and circulating pump pulley. These will be charcoal metallic, with black brackets and silver valve covers and accessories (closed cooling tanks, etc.) Should be much brighter in the engine compartment...
Formula 382 w/600 Innovations; 28 Batboat w/Ilmor 725 Indy
Just about ready to start painting the transom and the sides. The transom assemblies will come off to replace the mounting studs (the nuts have frozen on some of them), to check for any water in the transom, and to clean up/re-shape/powder coat the backing plates on the upper studs. All steering, tab, and drive trim hydraulic lines will come straight down from above, with the long runs hidden from sight. Power steering high-pressure and return lines will be re-routed to the front of the engines to run with the fuel lines, and I'll (eventually - ) scratch-build a clear p/s reservoir. Once all the rigging is back up on the transom and sides, we'll paint the floor. Water pickup lines from the transom assembly to the sea strainers will be 1-1/4" 316 stainless hard lines with short pieces of hose to provide some float and flexibility. The generator water pickup scoop has been replaced by a flush through-hull, so the massive 2" diameter overpressure relief line will go away (Thank God). I'll probably replace the fiberglass generator exhaust elbows (2 of them) with stainless bends. Why do they use those fiberglass elbows anyway???
Aluminum rigging clips will be replaced by (polished) stainless ADEL clips (bling). Hidden LED strip lights will shine inwards and down all the way around the engine bay from out of sight under the gunwales, individual LED fixtures will go under the engines and in the bottom of the hatch in the angled section just in front of the mirrors to shine straight down when the hatch is open (more bling). I'm staying away from the color-change and UFO light-show LED tubes though; they're a little too for my tastes.
About 6' of excess wire will be trimmed from the starboard engine looms, and the bonding system wires will be re-routed out of sight. All wiring will be re-bundled as neatly as possible in fire-resistant split loom.
The heads will go out for service tonight, and everything that needs it has gone out to the blasters to get stripped, and I'm almost done washing the rest. Thank God I've got an parts washer and air compressor in the shop I rented. Glad I scored some shelves, too. Painting, powder-coating and polishing start in earnest next week, and re-rigging should be underway shortly after Thanksgiving....
I am having my 500 efi's pulled out the week after Thanksgiving for a valve spring job also. My mechanic said that if I add sea strainers, I can tap the generator water pickup into one of the strainers, and will be able to run the gen on plane, up to about 55 mph.
Has anyone tried this?
While the engines are out, I want to install diamond plate to replace the rotted wood under the generator. What thickness diamond plate should be used to support the gen? I am guessing I need to use aluminum, should keep the weight down.
Formula 382 w/600 Innovations; 28 Batboat w/Ilmor 725 Indy
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mackattack
My mechanic said that if I add sea strainers, I can tap the generator water pickup into one of the strainers, and will be able to run the gen on plane, up to about 55 mph. Has anyone tried this?
Be careful. If you feed pressurized water to the generator when it's not running, it will push its way past the water pump, out the genny exhaust and fill up the water-lift muffler. Once is does that, it will work back into the exhaust ports of the genny's engine and -bang!-. That's why Formula fits a relief line to the scoop pickup on the factory-installed generators - it vents the excess water out the back of the boat. I replaced my scoop with a flat through-hull, so I am going to drastically downsize the relief line, but not eliminate it (just in case..). In the picture below, the BIG elbow and hose coming out of the front side of the bronze tee (at the 1:00 position) is the relief line; the 3/4" elbow and hose coming out the other end is the genny water feed...
Quote:
While the engines are out, I want to install diamond plate to replace the rotted wood under the generator. What thickness diamond plate should be used to support the gen? I am guessing I need to use aluminum, should keep the weight down.
There is a drip tray under the generator that is made by the genny manufacturer. Beneath that is a piece of 3/4" plywood to reinforce the floor, which is also plywood with a rubber "diamond plate" covering. I am going to go with wood again, but cover it with 1/16" polished aluminum diamond plate, also clear powder-coated like RedDog382 did.
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) scratch-build a clear p/s reservoir. Once all the rigging is back up on the transom and sides, we'll paint the floor. Water pickup lines from the transom assembly to the sea strainers will be 1-1/4" 316 stainless hard lines with short pieces of hose to provide some float and flexibility. The generator water pickup scoop has been replaced by a flush through-hull, so the massive 2" diameter overpressure relief line will go away (Thank God). I'll probably replace the fiberglass generator exhaust elbows (2 of them) with stainless bends. Why do they use those fiberglass elbows anyway???
for my tastes.
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