Volvo Penta DPX-A drive removal / service
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Volvo Penta DPX-A drive removal / service
Is anyone familiar with the removal procedure for a 2001 Volvo Penta DPX-A drive? Is the u-joint sealed, or need annual greasing? Any seals/o-rings that should be replaced as preventitive maintenaince?
The boat is a new-to-me Formula 271 Fastech with the VP HP525DPX combo. When asking around, I been told that the drive does not need greasing or to be removed annually to renew seals, etc. However, I'd like to at least replace the rubber bellows between the drive and the transom shield. Assuming the drive has to be removed to do this, I'd like to attend to any other items at that time.
Anyone familiar with step-by-step instructions? Info for this drive is a bit more difficult to locate than I expected.
Thanks,
Jeff
The boat is a new-to-me Formula 271 Fastech with the VP HP525DPX combo. When asking around, I been told that the drive does not need greasing or to be removed annually to renew seals, etc. However, I'd like to at least replace the rubber bellows between the drive and the transom shield. Assuming the drive has to be removed to do this, I'd like to attend to any other items at that time.
Anyone familiar with step-by-step instructions? Info for this drive is a bit more difficult to locate than I expected.
Thanks,
Jeff
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The u-joints should be good for quite a few hours without re-greasing. There are no zerk fittings, so if the joints feel too free, they have to be disassembled and greased by hand.
- Start by removing the cover plate at the top of the transom assembly (4 philips screws).
- Remove the helmet at the top of the drive (2 bolts - use a 5/16" allen/Bondhus driver).
- Remove both forward and aft steering ram pins by straightening the cotter pins. Keep track of any washers/spacers.
- Do the same thing for the aft end of the trim rams.
- Take off the back cover, remove the cotter pin on the shift cable nut and disengage it from the lower bellcrank.
- Loosen the 10mm bolt on the shift cable retainer (front side of the drive), and pivot the retainer up to release the cable.
- Using a 9/32" socket, loosen the hose clamps on the exhaust bellows (if you have Captains Call), the water inlet hose, and the u-joint bellows. (You'll need a pretty long extension.)
- Place a drive jack under the drive, and remove the two trim pivot pin retaining bolts on the transom assembly (6mm, I think).
- Using a soft punch or bar, tap the pivot pins inwards until they clear the transom assembly, and the drive should come off.
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Last edited by C_Spray; 05-01-2008 at 11:33 AM.
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C_Spray,
Would you mind answering a couple questions? From reading your posts, you sound like you are quite familiar with these drives.
1) Shifting smoothness - shifting into FWD = smooth, low efforts; shifting into Reverse = small clunk, low efforts; shifting out of Reverse = smooth, high efforts......Any idea why shifting out of Reverse is very difficult?
2) When the boat is on the trailer, I can lift upward/rearward on the drive and move it a small amount (the drive is basically moving slightly within the pivot pins mentioned in Steps 8 and 9 above). Is this "wiggle" normal, or should the pivot pins hold the drive more tightly. I suspect this is also the source of the clunk into reverse I mention above.
Thanks again,
Jeff
Would you mind answering a couple questions? From reading your posts, you sound like you are quite familiar with these drives.
1) Shifting smoothness - shifting into FWD = smooth, low efforts; shifting into Reverse = small clunk, low efforts; shifting out of Reverse = smooth, high efforts......Any idea why shifting out of Reverse is very difficult?
2) When the boat is on the trailer, I can lift upward/rearward on the drive and move it a small amount (the drive is basically moving slightly within the pivot pins mentioned in Steps 8 and 9 above). Is this "wiggle" normal, or should the pivot pins hold the drive more tightly. I suspect this is also the source of the clunk into reverse I mention above.
Thanks again,
Jeff
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Jeff,
Shifting:
There are inline switches in the shifter cables at the controls that trigger the Shift Interrupt mode on the engines. Sometimes they can go bad. But if yours shifts INTO forward OK, then it should come OUT of reverse fine. There is a small square 4-pin plug at the back of the engine. I don't know what the pin-out pattern is, but you might be able to confirm if your switch is working correctly with a meter somehow...
Freeplay:
There is some freeplay in the fit of the pins on either end of the trim rams, but if the nylon pivot bushing are worn, you should replace them when the drive is off. They are Volvo Penta part #876507 (Item #31 on the drawing below), and the best place to get them is probably through DougRussell.com: DougRussell DPX intermediate housing page here. They are about $36 a pair. They are not available through VolvoPenta.com's online store. If you need any other small parts, let me know, I have some miscellaneous spares, including an almost-new set of E3 props...
Here's Volvo Penta's DPX-A parts page, too. The u-joint bellows kit part number is #876294, about $65 list.
Shifting:
There are inline switches in the shifter cables at the controls that trigger the Shift Interrupt mode on the engines. Sometimes they can go bad. But if yours shifts INTO forward OK, then it should come OUT of reverse fine. There is a small square 4-pin plug at the back of the engine. I don't know what the pin-out pattern is, but you might be able to confirm if your switch is working correctly with a meter somehow...
Freeplay:
There is some freeplay in the fit of the pins on either end of the trim rams, but if the nylon pivot bushing are worn, you should replace them when the drive is off. They are Volvo Penta part #876507 (Item #31 on the drawing below), and the best place to get them is probably through DougRussell.com: DougRussell DPX intermediate housing page here. They are about $36 a pair. They are not available through VolvoPenta.com's online store. If you need any other small parts, let me know, I have some miscellaneous spares, including an almost-new set of E3 props...
Here's Volvo Penta's DPX-A parts page, too. The u-joint bellows kit part number is #876294, about $65 list.
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Last edited by C_Spray; 05-02-2008 at 05:16 PM.
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The DPX is a pretty cool drive,a shame they don't still build it.I did not know they built any 271's with it. Most were 353's and 382's. You have a rare,and sweet setup.
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thanks....that exploded view was exactly what I was looking
for.
I will be replacing the bushings at the pivot pins. From what I can tell, I don't even have the bushings. I'm hoping this takes care of the clunk I hear when shifting into reverse.
I'd really be interested in a new/slightly used set of....E4's.
When replacing the bellows, do I need to use any sealant in addition to the hose clamps?
This weekend I was busy working on the exterior while waiting for my parts to arrive. I wet-sanded the foredeck with 800, then 1000,1500, and finally 2000 grit paper, compounded with Finesse-it II, and cleaned/waxed with Collinite 870. I have to say..it looks nice. I'll have to post some pics.
I'd like to launch in a couple of weeks....I'll let you know how it goes.
Thanks again
for.
I will be replacing the bushings at the pivot pins. From what I can tell, I don't even have the bushings. I'm hoping this takes care of the clunk I hear when shifting into reverse.
I'd really be interested in a new/slightly used set of....E4's.
When replacing the bellows, do I need to use any sealant in addition to the hose clamps?
This weekend I was busy working on the exterior while waiting for my parts to arrive. I wet-sanded the foredeck with 800, then 1000,1500, and finally 2000 grit paper, compounded with Finesse-it II, and cleaned/waxed with Collinite 870. I have to say..it looks nice. I'll have to post some pics.
I'd like to launch in a couple of weeks....I'll let you know how it goes.
Thanks again
Last edited by silversupercoupe; 05-06-2008 at 08:37 AM.