Some background info, I purchased this 2007 400SS with Volvo Penta diesels in December 2007. It is a used boat, but only had 22 hours and was purchased new by the original owner in June 2007. I currently have 57 hours on the boat.
While the overall performance of the boat is great, there are more build quality issues than I had anticipated. Unfortunately I don't trust dealers and mechanically inclined enough to handle most of the problems on my own.
Starting with cabinet latches coming loose, I was surprised to find that these latches are held in by two small wood screws that screw into laminated particle board. We all know that is not going to last long on the water, but I've been fixing them with one size larger wood screws and Liquid Nails to help with the load.
Next was the TV antenna problem. I found out the small amplifier was burned out. Assuming the amplifier was the problem, Formula sent a new amplifier out and when I plugged it in, it worked fine until I actually connected the coax cable from the antenna. After further research, the coax cable was completely crushed between the hardtop and the mounting base. I had to cut and re-route the coax cable to fix the problem.
Now, my latest problem occurred this weekend. The Shower Sump Pump continuously runs. Yesterday I started diagnosing the problem. I went under the aft cabin bed to locate the sump and float switch. I assumed the float switch was the problem and would be simple fix by replacing the float switch. When I cut the wires to the float switch, the sump pump still continued to run! Now I'm worried. I checked continuity between the two wires connected to the float switch, and received a dirty continuity. I traced the wires and found there is a Red/Grey wire from the breaker that feeds the Shower Sump pump. At the float switch, I have a Red/Grey and Black. I followed the Red/Grey and it SEEMS to go to the breaker. The black wire goes under the bed and I assumed to the pump. But at the pump, there are two Red/Grey wires for Power and Ground that go into a large bunch of wires behind the holding tank.
I've called Formula for assistance, but they are closed this week! This is getting frustrating.
Formula 382 w/600 Innovations; 28 Batboat w/Ilmor 725 Indy
Look in the big 3-ring notebooks that come with the boat. Besides the Owners Manuals for all the various systems and components, there will be complete, system-by-system wiring diagrams in there. Bear in mind that the pump manufacturer probably does not color-code their wires the same way Formula does. Look for the first splice nearest the pump.
If you didn't get the manuals, go back to the first owner and demand them.
I replaced the mechanical switch in my sump with a Sens-O-Matic switch after the mechanical one got clogged with hair and debris a few times.
Thanks for the information. I looked over the wiring diagram and it seems I am on the right thought process. The problem is Formula has not used consistent wire colors. According to the diagram, I should have Red/Grey wires in and out of the float switch. I only have a Red/Grey wire into the float switch, but that is fine because it looks as if the black wire at the float switch is routed to the pump. I just don't know how to access and follow the black wire without seriously disassembling the aft cabin and/or cutting holes.
Strangely, they have used Red/Grey after the factory pump connector. The pump connector has Red and Black which makes sense, but Formula used Red/Grey for power and ground at the pump!
I'm thinking my only solution is pull a new wire from the float switch to the pump. I'm going to use a long wire to check continuity between the breaker and the Red/Grey wire at the float switch to see if it is clean.
Thanks for your reply.
BTW, where abouts on the Upper Chesapeake do you boat? Are you planning on going to the Bumper Bash on Saturday at Dobbins Island?
Thanks for the information. I looked over the wiring diagram and it seems I am on the right thought process. The problem is Formula has not used consistent wire colors. According to the diagram, I should have Red/Grey wires in and out of the float switch. I only have a Red/Grey wire into the float switch, but that is fine because it looks as if the black wire at the float switch is routed to the pump. I just don't know how to access and follow the black wire without seriously disassembling the aft cabin and/or cutting holes.
Strangely, they have used Red/Grey after the factory pump connector. The pump connector has Red and Black which makes sense, but Formula used Red/Grey for power and ground at the pump!
I'm thinking my only solution is pull a new wire from the float switch to the pump. I'm going to use a long wire to check continuity between the breaker and the Red/Grey wire at the float switch to see if it is clean.
Thanks for your reply.
BTW, where abouts on the Upper Chesapeake do you boat? Are you planning on going to the Bumper Bash on Saturday at Dobbins Island?
Hi
Sorry to take a different view.Diesel is not so usual with Formulas.What kind of cruising and top speed have you.What is correspondingly fuel consumption?
Hi
Sorry to take a different view.Diesel is not so usual with Formulas.What kind of cruising and top speed have you.What is correspondingly fuel consumption?
Top speed is around 46mph and my 400SS is a hardtop boat. A good friend has the exact boat without a hardtop and his is approximately 1mph faster on average.
I cruise around 38mph and it burns 26 gallons/hour at that speed.
I finally found the source of my problems after my Bow Thruster came on and wouldn't turn off until I turned off the breaker. It turns out that Formula does not loom the wires behind the refrigerator. In turn one of the control leads to the bow thruster also grounded itself which caused the bow thruster to come on and stay on.
Yesterday I found a zip tied bundle of wires that has been rubbing against the refrigerator chassis and cut through the Shower Sump wire earlier in the summer and then the Bow Thruster wire last week grounding them to the refrigerator chassis. I was surprised to find none of the wires behind the refrigerator were loomed.
I repaired the wires and secured them away from the refrigerator. Everything is running fine now.
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