Stuck rear engine mount bolt - Page 3

axapowell · 02-11-2010, 04:55 PM

Softer than the cast bellhousing. Steel nut overtightened =broken inner transom assembly.

RaggedEdge · 02-11-2010, 06:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ThirdBird

I've often wondered why they use aluminum nuts anyway, what's the purpose of that material choice?

So that they corrode all to chit, and then you break chit trying to take it apart, leading to parts sales! Parts sales is a good thing, especially when you are the only game in town.

Kinda like reactor parts, their cheap too, aren't they.

Clustergear · 02-11-2010, 06:39 PM

I have taken the flame wrench to them BUT would not recommend it. It was a last resort and it was getting dark out and i wanted to go home! Keep soaking for a few days and give it a wack each time with BFH (Big F__in Hammer)

Blitz5730 · 02-14-2010, 07:04 AM

Still working on it. Tried for an hour or so heating it up and used my standard impact wrench...didnt want to know. If only people have the forethought to put a little anti sieze when they put these things together. I was thinking the same about why they use different metals for the bolt and nut but i agree you dont want to wreck your transom plate if the thing siezes.

I'll keep trying but this has set me back big time..at least i understand more about how these things are put together. All the info you guys have given me is helpful so it's much appreciated.

offthefront · 02-14-2010, 08:29 AM

The bolt is not turning at all? there is a little slot that the nut sits in to keep it from turning ....maybe the bolt has lossened enough to let the nut drop down out of the slot and is spinning?

Audiofn · 02-14-2010, 09:39 AM

Be VERY carefull with anti seize! You need to make sure you use the proper one. We often times call it always seize. If you use the allum based stuff that most stores carry it will be worse then putting it in dry. I have found that when in doubt use white lithium paste. The Merc stuff is very good as well.

Blitz5730 · 02-15-2010, 08:17 AM

The bolt is not turning at all, i've twisted a 1/2 inch extension bar already, admittedly it wasn't the toughest extension bar in the world but i've never done that before on anythnig else. I've had someone else keep an eye while i'm using the impact wrench and confirmed it isn't turning at all.

Thanks for the heads up on anti-sieze audiofn.

formula 382 sr-1 · 02-15-2010, 01:18 PM

Cut the heads off the bolt, pull the motor off the studs. With the motors out you can get in there cut the stud right above the nut and slid the nut out of the cup.

Blitz5730 · 02-15-2010, 02:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by formula 382 sr-1

Cut the heads off the bolt, pull the motor off the studs. With the motors out you can get in there cut the stud right above the nut and slid the nut out of the cup.

Yeah i think that i could end up by doing that. Do you reckon grind the head off or is there another way. Not too keen on too many sparks flying around the engine bay?!

formula 382 sr-1 · 02-15-2010, 02:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Blitz5730

Yeah i think that i could end up by doing that. Do you reckon grind the head off or is there another way. Not too keen on too many sparks flying around the engine bay?!

Yea I know but thats what we had to do in our 87 272 Formula. Do it slow and try to keep the heat down, If the bolts are not stuck it the bushing the motor should come out. Then you can get in there and cut the bolt just above the nut and slide the nut out of the slot.