Formula 255 Liberator
02-14-2011, 07:14 PM
#31
Registered
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Buffalo,NY
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i have thru hull now on my liberator. so far they sound pretty *****in' can't wait to open it up this summer on the Niagara. Drilling the holes is how my father found the transom rot. that wasn't fun replacing it all. but now its done and is the better for it.
02-16-2011, 09:40 AM
#32
Gold Member
Gold MemberJoin Date: Jan 2011
Location: Syracuse, NY
Posts: 1,097
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
bowlner, def would like to to see/hear the new pipes!!! Anyone have advice on a 23ft webbcraft enterprise? 454/thru hull/bravo 1 and the boat actually is water worthy with a decent hull and interior... $1500 opinons guys??
02-16-2011, 09:46 PM
#34
Registered
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Buffalo,NY
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
there are my new exhaust, the tips come out pretty much where the swim deck sat. so had to raise that. everything is above the waterline and sealed with 4200. so no rot. plus its a new transom!hah
02-27-2011, 09:58 AM
#36
Registered
Here is my update for Feb 27, 2011.
I had a hell of a time removing the outer bell housing or "skull" on the starboard drive. I was never able to remove the port side pivot pin bolt and ended up cutting it out with a sawzall....easier said than done!!! Once I got it apart I found that the mounting flange for the u-joint bellows on the transom assembly was completely corroded away at the bottom. There is a kit made by Sierra that includes a special PVC ring on a bellows along with epoxy sealer that can solve this problem but based on the way I plan to use the boat I decided to not cut any corners and go ahead and replace the transom assembly.
Replacing the transom assembly requires removing the engine to get to the inside of the transom assembly. I could use an Alpha I assembly but then I would need to replace the steering connection as well as the Y-Pipe. I hunted down and found a fresh water clean No. 1 transom assembly complete with trim rams, skull,gimbal ring,etc. The gimbal ring is tight so as to maintain steering control at spec. This is a perfect match for my original and will bolt up perfectly. This assembly is set up with the later model rams that allow 3 deg more of trim than the older models so I am good to go.
We are pulling the starboard engine this week, swapping transom assemblies as well as installing new u-joint and shift bellows along with new gimbal bearing, water pump,etc.
All of this is a bit of a pain in the a$$ but is the kind of crap one encounters in restoring a 32 year old boat.
Stay tuned...
I had a hell of a time removing the outer bell housing or "skull" on the starboard drive. I was never able to remove the port side pivot pin bolt and ended up cutting it out with a sawzall....easier said than done!!! Once I got it apart I found that the mounting flange for the u-joint bellows on the transom assembly was completely corroded away at the bottom. There is a kit made by Sierra that includes a special PVC ring on a bellows along with epoxy sealer that can solve this problem but based on the way I plan to use the boat I decided to not cut any corners and go ahead and replace the transom assembly.
Replacing the transom assembly requires removing the engine to get to the inside of the transom assembly. I could use an Alpha I assembly but then I would need to replace the steering connection as well as the Y-Pipe. I hunted down and found a fresh water clean No. 1 transom assembly complete with trim rams, skull,gimbal ring,etc. The gimbal ring is tight so as to maintain steering control at spec. This is a perfect match for my original and will bolt up perfectly. This assembly is set up with the later model rams that allow 3 deg more of trim than the older models so I am good to go.
We are pulling the starboard engine this week, swapping transom assemblies as well as installing new u-joint and shift bellows along with new gimbal bearing, water pump,etc.
All of this is a bit of a pain in the a$$ but is the kind of crap one encounters in restoring a 32 year old boat.
Stay tuned...
03-01-2011, 04:42 PM
#37
Gold Member
Gold MemberJoin Date: Jan 2011
Location: Syracuse, NY
Posts: 1,097
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Geez sprink, how the hell did you find another transom assembly??? I can't imagine trying to track down a 32 yr old transom ha. It'll be so cool to have the boat done right! I'm seriously thinking about grabbing the webbcraft enterprise and swapping in the 454/bravo next winter. Thoughts?
03-03-2011, 03:39 PM
#38
Registered
Geez sprink, how the hell did you find another transom assembly??? I can't imagine trying to track down a 32 yr old transom ha. It'll be so cool to have the boat done right! I'm seriously thinking about grabbing the webbcraft enterprise and swapping in the 454/bravo next winter. Thoughts?
If you don't buy it...let me know & I'll put it in my brother's F3!!!
03-05-2011, 07:46 AM
#39
Gold Member
Gold MemberJoin Date: Jan 2011
Location: Syracuse, NY
Posts: 1,097
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Crazy thing is thats its a 454/bravo... AND a whole boat lol. She's even got the trailer under her and its a nice HD with surge brakes fresh tires etc... Guess its time to go get her. I'll let ya know when I do!
03-07-2011, 06:01 PM
#40
Registered
Here is my update for Feb 27, 2011.
I had a hell of a time removing the outer bell housing or "skull" on the starboard drive. I was never able to remove the port side pivot pin bolt and ended up cutting it out with a sawzall....easier said than done!!! Once I got it apart I found that the mounting flange for the u-joint bellows on the transom assembly was completely corroded away at the bottom. There is a kit made by Sierra that includes a special PVC ring on a bellows along with epoxy sealer that can solve this problem but based on the way I plan to use the boat I decided to not cut any corners and go ahead and replace the transom assembly.
Replacing the transom assembly requires removing the engine to get to the inside of the transom assembly. I could use an Alpha I assembly but then I would need to replace the steering connection as well as the Y-Pipe. I hunted down and found a fresh water clean No. 1 transom assembly complete with trim rams, skull,gimbal ring,etc. The gimbal ring is tight so as to maintain steering control at spec. This is a perfect match for my original and will bolt up perfectly. This assembly is set up with the later model rams that allow 3 deg more of trim than the older models so I am good to go.
We are pulling the starboard engine this week, swapping transom assemblies as well as installing new u-joint and shift bellows along with new gimbal bearing, water pump,etc.
All of this is a bit of a pain in the a$$ but is the kind of crap one encounters in restoring a 32 year old boat.
Stay tuned...
I had a hell of a time removing the outer bell housing or "skull" on the starboard drive. I was never able to remove the port side pivot pin bolt and ended up cutting it out with a sawzall....easier said than done!!! Once I got it apart I found that the mounting flange for the u-joint bellows on the transom assembly was completely corroded away at the bottom. There is a kit made by Sierra that includes a special PVC ring on a bellows along with epoxy sealer that can solve this problem but based on the way I plan to use the boat I decided to not cut any corners and go ahead and replace the transom assembly.
Replacing the transom assembly requires removing the engine to get to the inside of the transom assembly. I could use an Alpha I assembly but then I would need to replace the steering connection as well as the Y-Pipe. I hunted down and found a fresh water clean No. 1 transom assembly complete with trim rams, skull,gimbal ring,etc. The gimbal ring is tight so as to maintain steering control at spec. This is a perfect match for my original and will bolt up perfectly. This assembly is set up with the later model rams that allow 3 deg more of trim than the older models so I am good to go.
We are pulling the starboard engine this week, swapping transom assemblies as well as installing new u-joint and shift bellows along with new gimbal bearing, water pump,etc.
All of this is a bit of a pain in the a$$ but is the kind of crap one encounters in restoring a 32 year old boat.
Stay tuned...
Serial numbers make this a non-vortec 2006 Merc crate engine
...it used to be yellow...transom is rock solid.
...stay tuned.
Last edited by sprink58; 03-07-2011 at 06:12 PM.
