endeavour32

iTrader: (4)

I'm not a fan of imperial, try 3M superduty. I'm also not sure on using an electric sander, I've always used an air sander. Red is a real b!tch to bring back, just take it slow.

oreokid220

I dont have access to an air sander. I was hoping the electric with an foam pad and then the paper would work just as a DA would.

Why do you think the scratches are not buffing out completely? Should I sand with a higher than 1000 grit? I tried to get a picture, but cant capture the scratches.

With the DA dry what was the finish you were looking for on the boat before compounding? An even dull faded red? In addition, how tough is the gelcoat because I am still scared of burning through it especially with the electric sander?

endeavour32

iTrader: (4)

It's not going to hurt going up to 1000 grit or higher. I've never used an electric sander on gel, I suppose it's the same. As far as gel goes, I would sand and then wash the boat, and look very closely for clouds in the gel. If I saw cloudly gel I would sand more in that area. The boat wet is what it will look like polished.

oreokid220

Well the electric sander with a 1/2 inch foam interface pad and the dry sanding disks is the ticket plus the 3m Super Duty is the ticket item. The boat is turning out amazing!!!!!!!

Can I hit the imron with any compound or just save the polish for it?

Thanks so much for all the help!

88242LS

Just polish the imron. i promise it will look new

endeavour32

iTrader: (4)

e-mail me some pics and I'll post them on here for you! I'm glad the electric sander worked out, hand sanding an entire boat is a joke. I did my first formula that way and it took FOREVER!

ThirdBird

Ok, so I have to pipe in here; I had to sand out a blue-sided
'88 242. I started with 800, went to 1000, then finished with 1500. All wet with a good block. You need to let it totally dry after each sand so you can see where you need to hit it again. The gel should be evenly "deglossed" after each course of sanding. You also need to sand in one direction, NOT circular. The circular action of buffing will then be able to buff across the scratch lines rather than along the scratch lines. That is important!!

Dry sanding will result in paper clogs that build up in local areas on the paper and result in nasty scratch lines. Wet is the only way to get it nice and even. Spend the money and change paper often. I firmly believe in going beyond the grit level that the buffing polish says it will remove. If the polish says it will take out 1200 grit scratches, sand down to 1500. That's how you get nice deep lasting finish. After I got done with that blue 242, it honestly looked like it had been freshly painted. Lasted two seasons then I sold it. No idea how well it held up after that.

wet mess express

I am saying this with 100% authority and knowledge. i am a painter of 15 years everything from dupont chroma base on cars to imron 600 and imron elite on the late model over the road trucks. DO NOT start with 400. you will take off to much material to fast. 1000 would be the coarsest i would use on gel or imron. 3M makes a rubbing compound in a one gallon paint can that is made for gel coat. it is what i used on my 87 223 ls. it goes along way and unfortunately you cant buy it in smaller cans. it will work on the imron also but it will buff fast and you dont want to stay on it long because you will burn the paint off. finish up with 3M 5993 finesse it compound for swirl marks and then put a good marine wax on it. car wax will not hold up.