Another '79 Formula 255 Liberator
07-24-2014, 10:01 AM
#11
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I'll take some pictures tomorrow (got home too late tonight, hate taking pix in the dark!). The rear deck "Sun pad" is teak, it covers a shallow full-beam storage compartment above the engines. The front of that is fiberglass on the top half, and carpeted wood hinged to the fiberglass on the bottom half, it has a lip at the bottom that supports the seat bottom, and the seat back. The seat back is wider than the opening for the engine compartment, and it just sits across the storage bins on either side. the front of the seat bottom is wood with some speakers and a battery switch. That front panel is attached to the side compartments with frame brackets (face mount 90* angles). It really isn't a very good setup, difficult to access for service and repairs, not super secure, and just not very professional looking.
As for the interior of the cabin... well... the original 'wall paper' is a textured surface, someone painted it the color you see in the pix, it's sorta rosy tan, and the curtain was a dark maroon, makes it look pink inside- really not cool at all but it's a low priority. I'm still working out the 'not very marine' repairs on the engines and drives, got it running really well and fairly reliably- we want to get a little use out of it this summer and will dive into the big stuff in the off season... I hope. LOL
I'll get some good detail photos tomorrow- should be a nice day, and I have some projects planned anyway!
As for the interior of the cabin... well... the original 'wall paper' is a textured surface, someone painted it the color you see in the pix, it's sorta rosy tan, and the curtain was a dark maroon, makes it look pink inside- really not cool at all but it's a low priority. I'm still working out the 'not very marine' repairs on the engines and drives, got it running really well and fairly reliably- we want to get a little use out of it this summer and will dive into the big stuff in the off season... I hope. LOL
I'll get some good detail photos tomorrow- should be a nice day, and I have some projects planned anyway!
07-25-2014, 10:19 AM
#12
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I'm with you Sprink, not sure how much use that locker will get- removing it would REALLY help access back there!
Here are the pix:
Back bench:
Seat back removed:
Seat removed:
Rear support folded up:
Amazing brackets:
It looks like it's a modification of original design, but I'm sure the support wood piece on the sides, te angle bracket, and the folding back support aren't actually original. I actually would like to see some other ideas- I plan to change it- just not sure what to do yet.
Here are the pix:
Back bench:
Seat back removed:
Seat removed:
Rear support folded up:
Amazing brackets:
It looks like it's a modification of original design, but I'm sure the support wood piece on the sides, te angle bracket, and the folding back support aren't actually original. I actually would like to see some other ideas- I plan to change it- just not sure what to do yet.
07-25-2014, 10:32 AM
#13
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Cool old boat. Interesting water routing on the motors.
07-25-2014, 10:39 AM
#14
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Thanks for the pics.
One thing I have considered is continuing the cockpit floor all the way to the back edge of the tray. I am thinking of framing the floor with aluminum angles or channels and creating a hatch in the floor for engine access. It sure would open the cockpit up!!! I don't ever have anyone on my boat but me and my girl anyway so I don't need the seating.
The Formula 255 Freedom Cruiser is set up that way. Our boats are so damn deep anyway that there is plenty of clearance over the tops of the engines.
One thing I have considered is continuing the cockpit floor all the way to the back edge of the tray. I am thinking of framing the floor with aluminum angles or channels and creating a hatch in the floor for engine access. It sure would open the cockpit up!!! I don't ever have anyone on my boat but me and my girl anyway so I don't need the seating.
The Formula 255 Freedom Cruiser is set up that way. Our boats are so damn deep anyway that there is plenty of clearance over the tops of the engines.
07-25-2014, 10:45 AM
#16
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My first upgrade project was the controls mount. The wood base was a bit worn, and though easily repairable I thought updating to something more 'current' might look better. I wanted to get a bit more room as well, so I made a trim plate from 1/4" Lexan, painted the back black, and replaced the wood. I completed this project while cleaning, checking, and lubing the stock Morse controls (thinking this was part of my shifting problem). Photos:
Before:
"Machining" the new trim:
Finished trim ring:
Mock-up with control:
Finished install:
If you look close in the last photo, you can see the edge of the trim ring (top right in the photo) and see that the color is on the back of the Lexan. I'm seriously considering re-doing this one, and making a new instrument panel the same way but using a yellow that matches the boat instead of black.
Before:
"Machining" the new trim:
Finished trim ring:
Mock-up with control:
Finished install:
If you look close in the last photo, you can see the edge of the trim ring (top right in the photo) and see that the color is on the back of the Lexan. I'm seriously considering re-doing this one, and making a new instrument panel the same way but using a yellow that matches the boat instead of black.
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07-25-2014, 11:31 AM
#17
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Thanks Knot 4 Me! We are excited about the potential!
Ya, gotta love ingenuity! More great home-made stuff than I care to see on a boat. I want to get real cross-overs and a thermostat housing. The plumbing fixtures are just not cool with me. Did you see the bad-a** risers the PO made? They gotta go to.
Ya, gotta love ingenuity! More great home-made stuff than I care to see on a boat. I want to get real cross-overs and a thermostat housing. The plumbing fixtures are just not cool with me. Did you see the bad-a** risers the PO made? They gotta go to.
07-25-2014, 11:37 AM
#18
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Sprink; I love the zero efforts- had a set sorta 'reserved' but it fell through. Can't see spending $1k plus tho, so I'm holding out for another used set
As for the floor/ hatch... I'm thinking about redoing the seat/ floor area and put it on a hatch that folds forward- seats and all, then a sun pad/ cover that will lift rearward. I'll have reasonable access for quick checks and such, but be able to peel the whole thing open when the need for full access arises!.
As for the floor/ hatch... I'm thinking about redoing the seat/ floor area and put it on a hatch that folds forward- seats and all, then a sun pad/ cover that will lift rearward. I'll have reasonable access for quick checks and such, but be able to peel the whole thing open when the need for full access arises!.
07-27-2014, 12:14 PM
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We took the boat out last weekend to test the ignition cut outs and do some minor tuning. She's running amazing now, cut outs worked perfectly- shifts are smooth with just a brief stumble of the engines. We spent a full day on the water enjoying the fruits of our labor. Once the boat is loaded, I like to pull up just out of the water and start the engines just briefly to blow out the water from the exhausts (may be worthless but it makes me feel better). The starboard engine fired immediately and I shut it right off, port engine starter just made a horrible grinding noise!
When I checked the starter (back at home) I found the smaller outside mounting bolt missing so I picked one up and put it in. No such luck- still didn't work. I pulled the starter and found this:
Not good to use a starter that's not properly secured I guess- one more minor detail I missed in my inspections that bit me!
New starter- $190-300. I decided to try a DIY fix...
Aluminum "Brazing" Rod
I ground out the cracks with a dremmel tool (the nose cone is cast aluminum so it was fairly easy):
Then I clamped the cone in my vise, put clamps on the cone to hold the cracks closed and used the 'brazing rods'. I didn't have a cameraman handy, so no 'action pix', but here's what it looked like after 'brazing';
I ground down the repairs and blended the areas into the rest of the starter;
The repair material is MUCH harder than the surrounding cast aluminum. It's kinda tricky to work with but seems like pretty good stuff. I re-installed the starter and it worked perfect. I cleaned up the rotor and stator housing and checked the gaskets/ seals while it was out. Cost was about $13 and a few hours work total- seems like pretty good savings to me! I'll post up if it fails anytime soon.
When I checked the starter (back at home) I found the smaller outside mounting bolt missing so I picked one up and put it in. No such luck- still didn't work. I pulled the starter and found this:
Not good to use a starter that's not properly secured I guess- one more minor detail I missed in my inspections that bit me!
New starter- $190-300. I decided to try a DIY fix...
Aluminum "Brazing" Rod
I ground out the cracks with a dremmel tool (the nose cone is cast aluminum so it was fairly easy):
Then I clamped the cone in my vise, put clamps on the cone to hold the cracks closed and used the 'brazing rods'. I didn't have a cameraman handy, so no 'action pix', but here's what it looked like after 'brazing';
I ground down the repairs and blended the areas into the rest of the starter;
The repair material is MUCH harder than the surrounding cast aluminum. It's kinda tricky to work with but seems like pretty good stuff. I re-installed the starter and it worked perfect. I cleaned up the rotor and stator housing and checked the gaskets/ seals while it was out. Cost was about $13 and a few hours work total- seems like pretty good savings to me! I'll post up if it fails anytime soon.
Last edited by SocialTherapy; 07-27-2014 at 12:22 PM.
07-28-2014, 08:11 AM
#20
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I have to tell you...seriously...on my boat, as difficult as it is to remove and replace the starters I would have been tempted to replace that one with new.
I salute you and your ingenuity however!!!
I salute you and your ingenuity however!!!
