axapowell

Now, I will admit that trying to wring out that last mile per hour, commonly you can click individual drives to finalize that last 1/10 of a mph at WOT. But the OP is correcting for wind, not top end speed, is there some confusion to this?

Dave

Mentalpause

It is just a technique that works. It is a very slight adjustment. There isn't much to explain how it works, when you tuck or raise your drives it lowers or raises the bow profile of the boat. If you barely adjust only one drive, it impacts the nose attitude opposite the drive you adjusted. I've never used it to tweak out a last 1/10th mph. But I'm pretty sure your boat doesn't know if you are using it to correct attitude or wring out the last mph. So if it is inappropriate to use in one case, it is inappropriate to use in the other. We just don't totally agree on this one, not a big deal. I totally understand Dave's position on possible undue stress on the steering or tie bar. I've been using it with twin engine boats going on 18 years and have never had an issue. Sometimes I still use my tabs to correct lean too. But I make minor adjustments with the drives.

billpor930

Agree with Dave. Running a 353 myself, I found it very easy to 'overtrim' the tabs to correct a wind induced list of the boat. A momentary touch of the appropriate tab trim switch is usually all that is needed. Give the boat a chance to respond.

axapowell

Tapping an outdrive at WOT to tweak it out is more for adjusting for any play or slop in the geometry to even them out, not to change the attitude. Again, very very minor adjustments.

As previously posted, 2 clicks (assuming indicator lines) is a lot. Someone can measure theirs and see. That may equate to a couple inches depending on the indicator at the helm.


And again, no fight here, just a difference of opinion.

Dave

Smitty

iTrader: (1)

After reading this my post to the end, here is my take : First, the drive thing by MDC is only meant to sync both drives to the same level. Assuming the lake is flat and no crosswinds etc. Kinda the same as syncing the engines to the same rpm. Problem with that is no two motors make the same prop horsepower, so rpm syncing is just that. I run my tabs flat/even will hull as a rule. If I am in a small to medium crosswind, I use the drives. On my boat it does not take much, maybe 1 click. Heavy winds is tabs and drives. Or you can sync drives and use the throttles. Think about a jet. Two engines. In a crosswind, one motor is throttled more than the other to go straight right. I have been on planes that come down sideways, and at the last minute the pilot straightens it out to hit the runway straight on. I don't think any comments here make reference to a huge difference in drive disparities. As we all know, driving a performance boat requires constant attention to the controls if you are doing it right. Just be safe out there guys..

Smitty

bck

Thanks. Sounds like I'd have to add electrical sending units ( if possible) and hook them to that unit. I have mechanical indicators now. If you needed the drives uneven how do you do it with that device installed?

Rippem

you just have to perfect the art of "stabbing" the rocker Just enough to make contact. Too fast acting at times. Especially if ur fussing about a parallel running deck as I am, unless you want to heel to some rough
just very sensitive to length-of-command when you need very little tab movement

VoodooRob

The original single buttons on the dash all do their same functions, it's when you hit the dual button the Drive Sync kicks in. So you can play with the individual buttons as before for as long as you like, hit the dual button and the drives will even up. Very smart system. There is a 2.0 version now that you can program 2 settings into, meant for racing when adjusting drives in and out of turns.

badmonkey