sleeper_dave

I have a '91 boat, with the hydraulically actuated seat bolsters. I pulled them out to repair the sagging issue and i'm not a fan of the hydraulics. I've decided "no way" am i going to stay with the hydraulic rams.

So, i'm wondering where and for how much $$ can i get a set of the electric actuators?

Or will i be better off just adapting some generic actuators?

snielsen

thats a great question

Lofty

I use the stock Fountain electric actuators when I convert. They run about $250 a pair and take some modification to make them work in a hydraulic seat. The brackets inside the seat don't lend themselves to both types of actuator. The electrics are rather large.

Just pull the seats out, remove the top from the base and start figuring it all out. I've done a few but I don't have any pics.... sorry.

sleeper_dave

where do you get the fountain electric actuators?

I called Fountain and they wanted $280 each. That's about double my price range on this project. I don't really want som cheapo actuator either, i may end up having to stick with the hydraulics.

Lofty

you can get them from McMaster-Carr. 562.692.5911 or

www.mcmaster.com

sleeper_dave

McMaster Carr gives the amount of force the actuators apply, but not the amount of load they can hold while they are off. Even their cheapest, 100 lb actuator is more than $200 a pop. I was hoping to spend $200-$250 for both.

If i can't find them cheaper or used i might be stuck with the hydraulic ones. I really don't want to have to bleed my frickin' seats when i reinstall them. And i was hoping to use those pumps for the tabs.

US1 Fountain

iTrader: (1)

When the seats are in the full up position, there is no force needed from the actuator to hold it up. The 'locking' is done by the linkage. When in the up position, the linkage is locked in a straight line. the actuator just keeps it there. A plastic wire tie will do the same at that point.

I just rebuilt/reinforced both of my seat frames last month do to them bending to where the seat bottoms were not coming up all the way.

My 27 had hyd seats and a couple time a yr, the drivers side would creep down. I just cycled it a couple times and was good for a few months. My 32 has electric seats. They are slower to move. I don't care for that.

sleeper_dave

Yes and no. I don't have one in front of me right now, but i do remember what the mechanism looks like. Now that i think about it, it is probably designed to do exactly as you say. But if it worked, the top bar that the hydraulic actuator is mounted to wouldn't have bent. When i put it back together i will have to pay close attention to that mechanism to try to get it working as designed.

US1 Fountain

iTrader: (1)

My issue was on the rear cross member of the steel frame, actually just 1/16" walled square tubing, where the linkage attaches. When the seat is up and the linkage locked in a straight line, all the force from hitting waves transfers thru the linkage to the crossmember, bending it backwards. In doing so, now the linkaage is not long enough, hense the seat bottom lacked a good inch of upwards travel. I straightened the frame, then added a 1/4" SS angle (and then a flat peice of 1/4" SS to the inside of the angle to make a triangle out of the angle across the full lenght, then added gussets to help tie it into the side frames. The upper mount just needed a rod welded from it to the lower crossmember as close as possible to the linkage and in a straight line to keep the upper support from deflecting upwards. I also added some bracing to the linkage to keep them from bending and spreading apart under load. I think I added about 20# of SS to each seat, but you can lift the boat off the trailer by the seats now!

It's easiest to have the seats torn down to the steel frame to see the weak points. I also had to remake the linkages, but 1/8" longer to get the full travel needed to lock the linkage in place. Be surprised how much a difference an 1/8" makes.

US1 Fountain

iTrader: (1)

Found a picture I took when I 1st started the trouble shooting. You can see how the upper support is bent upwards. The rod is from Fountain, but is at a diagonal. Didn't help any. The rod I added,(after straightening the upper support) was welded right next to the upper mount location and went down to the lower cross member in a straight line to keep that distance set. Just that little upward bend was enough affect the shorten the extended lenght of the actualtor. The lower cross member is right under the opening in the center of the seat covering. The 2 verticle plates in the center attach to it and are what pushed the cross member rearward and upward. I have no after repair pics.
2 hints
When reworking the frame, get the seat bottom frame to be perfectly parallel to the 2 side frame arms with the linkage in the 'locked' position. Disregard actuator at this point. That'll be the point where the seat base is fully up and tight to the upper seat wood body.
Now,
After the bottom is level linkage is locked in position, THEN adjust the upper support distance, less or more, to the point to where the actuator is fully extended holding the linkage in the locked postion without force. You don't need to have force holding it there, that'll just bend things. While cycling the base up, you shouldn't see the upper deflecting any.