Is there a web site/ old brochures that shows any of the options and packages that were offered on the older fountains
ie: 1991 35 Lightning, and is there any thing different on the older 35's 1991 vs say a 1996 other than the step hulls later, any changes good or bad
I've got an older 10-Meter (1986). As fas as I know, the Executioner hull from 1984, up through the 35 Lightning prior to steps (96-97?) all came out of the same mold. There have been some slight differences in strake locations, but overall, the same hull. In '89 they added the integrated swim platform, and the 33 turned into a 35.
There are a lot of variations of this boat during this period. TRS's and Speedmasters in the early years required a transmission, so the motors are farther forward, and the balance of the boat is quite different. Bravos came along somewhere in 89-90, and the motors were moved against the transom.
There's also been a ton of X-dimension experimentation during the same period. With all of this going on, there's a large variation in how the boats handle and perform.
Fountain's website use to have old product brochures, but it looks like they've cleaned up in there. Try calling Martin or Gail in customer service (800.438.2055) and ask if they have any of the old stuff laying around.
I've got an older 10-Meter (1986). As fas as I know, the Executioner hull from 1984, up through the 35 Lightning prior to steps (96-97?) all came out of the same mold. There have been some slight differences in strake locations, but overall, the same hull. In '89 they added the integrated swim platform, and the 33 turned into a 35.
There are a lot of variations of this boat during this period. TRS's and Speedmasters in the early years required a transmission, so the motors are farther forward, and the balance of the boat is quite different. Bravos came along somewhere in 89-90, and the motors were moved against the transom.
There's also been a ton of X-dimension experimentation during the same period. With all of this going on, there's a large variation in how the boats handle and perform.
Fountain's website use to have old product brochures, but it looks like they've cleaned up in there. Try calling Martin or Gail in customer service (800.438.2055) and ask if they have any of the old stuff laying around.
Good luck,
Brian
Brian,
are you familiar with the cause and effects of the bravo
relocation ? the higher vs lower x-d as well
I have 89 fever back in the day it was sold as a 36 fever with the molded swim platform single engine hatch came with this model (still 38 feet in length )
and the performance report that came signed by Reggie
shows the boat is built with a 18.5 x-d , people tell me that 18.5 is a trs measurement I will be taking boat dry dock and measure it for sure .
Howard, not sure I understand your question, but I'll give it a try... first a couple of questions:
Was you fever originally a TRS boat that was reworked for Bravo's? Or has it been a Bravo boat all along?
A TRS drive's propshaft location is over 2" deeper (2 1/4" I believe) than a Bravo, given the motor's crankshaft height is in the same loaction. In general, the higher the propshaft, the less drive drag, and higher speeds. An added effect is the props are more free on the upper end of the prop rotation, so there's less load allowing the motors to rev easier, thus even more speed.
I couldn't tell you what my "X-dimension" is (never measured), but I do know that my propshafts run at 5 1/4" below the running surface of my hull. This is with a Konrad drive setup, which are 1.68" shorter than my TRS's were. That would have made my TRS propshaft depth at close to 7" deep from the running surface. DEEP in a performance boat.
Measure with a straight edge along the running surface (forward of the knotch) with your drives parallel to the hull. This will give you an idea of whether your boat was set up for Bravo's or TRS's.
My '89 36 Fever was made 8/9/88 and the performance report shows the X dim as 18.5" but is not correct. I can't remember but it is either 16.5 or 16.75. I have talked to guys at Fountain about raising the X, going to shorty drives and using extension boxes and have decided to try shorties. They told me that I should definitely see some improvement by changing the prop depth. They also said that unless I need more leverage that the boxes were not necessary but I also do not boat offshore even though the inland lake here does get choppy, it is not rough. I did not want to get into changing the transom cutout when mine is good and then I am stuck with the change. So for now, I decided to do the shorties. I am working on reinstalling the T/A assemblies and adding full hydraulic steering now and plan to reinstall the motors and run some this season before trying shorties so I can do some comparisons. I am also making some slight upgrades to the motors and want to know what if anything improved.
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