Bottom Blue Printing
10-11-2007, 12:38 AM
#41
Last edited by tomtbone1993; 10-11-2007 at 01:20 AM.
10-11-2007, 06:55 AM
#42
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EXTREME 517-394-0074
10-11-2007, 06:31 PM
#44
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Nabber's shop is in Morris Illinois. The guy with the 42 Fountain is from Indiana.
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Fountain powerboats rule "The Preacher"
Chicago Powerboat Club Director
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Fountain powerboats rule "The Preacher"
Chicago Powerboat Club Director
[email protected]
www.chicagopowerboat.com
10-11-2007, 07:47 PM
#45
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To fill you guys in a little more.
When you build a boat, regardless of how straight the mold is the hull shrinks as it cures. This is one of the reasons they release from the mold.
The biggest issue is heat, good shops can control the exotherm in the resin, but most cannot control the humidity or air temp, a hot boat will shrink more. Generally winter built boats are better.
As for the shrinkage, all the straight hard lines on the hull do a better job of retaining there design shape better than large flat surfaces. So the edges for the transom, chines and strakes typically hold, and the big flat areas between them shrink causing a concave area. This is most noticed in front of the transom as this is the most ridged part of the hull...... and hence the hook. A good shop will grind off the gel and fill the hook with structural filler then regel the hull...... and real good guys will leave the finish in 400 grit, with the sanding lines following the direction of water flow......... this last bit is only ok for boats that are kept on lifts or are trailer queens. As gel is like your skin and will absorb anything....meaning it will stain.
Lastly... NEVER and I repeat NEVER wax your bottom.
RT
When you build a boat, regardless of how straight the mold is the hull shrinks as it cures. This is one of the reasons they release from the mold.
The biggest issue is heat, good shops can control the exotherm in the resin, but most cannot control the humidity or air temp, a hot boat will shrink more. Generally winter built boats are better.
As for the shrinkage, all the straight hard lines on the hull do a better job of retaining there design shape better than large flat surfaces. So the edges for the transom, chines and strakes typically hold, and the big flat areas between them shrink causing a concave area. This is most noticed in front of the transom as this is the most ridged part of the hull...... and hence the hook. A good shop will grind off the gel and fill the hook with structural filler then regel the hull...... and real good guys will leave the finish in 400 grit, with the sanding lines following the direction of water flow......... this last bit is only ok for boats that are kept on lifts or are trailer queens. As gel is like your skin and will absorb anything....meaning it will stain.
Lastly... NEVER and I repeat NEVER wax your bottom.
RT
10-13-2007, 11:38 AM
#46
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Runninhotracing - I called the number, but the lady that answered didn't know about Extreme Fiberglass. I repeated the number and she said that was her number, a private residence. Got another number? Thanks.
10-15-2007, 02:58 PM
#47
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I was under the impression all Fountains were Blue Printed Hulls from the factory? My 2001 Fever I swear it says so in the brochure?? With that being said, wouldn't one just be worried about a hook at the pad/transome and not the entire hull. I know when I am running WFO only about 12" of the hull is even in the water. Just something to think about.
Also isn't it easy to see if one even needs Blue Printing, just take a straight edge and place it along the hull to see if their is a hook. I would make sure somethings wrong before I would go fixing. Just some things to think about
WILL
Also isn't it easy to see if one even needs Blue Printing, just take a straight edge and place it along the hull to see if their is a hook. I would make sure somethings wrong before I would go fixing. Just some things to think about
WILL
10-16-2007, 04:50 PM
#48
JB Marshall
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How much filling and/or grinding is going to depend upon how bad the bottom is to start with. I had my Hustler done a few years ago, and saw minimal gain. But, the bottom was extremely good to start with. Shop I used in NY has seen as much as 5 MPH pick-up. but, all depends on how bad it is at the start,
32storm, Who & where in NY did yours?
10-20-2007, 09:45 PM
#49
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I used a 4' board and placed it in line with the bottom two strakes on either side of the center line. I didn't see any gaps. Does this mean that the bottom is straight? How percise do you have to be to detect any flaws in the bottom? I don't want to throw money away if their is no speed gain.
10-21-2007, 12:42 AM
#50
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I used a 4' board and placed it in line with the bottom two strakes on either side of the center line. I didn't see any gaps. Does this mean that the bottom is straight? How percise do you have to be to detect any flaws in the bottom? I don't want to throw money away if their is no speed gain.
I just read on the Fountain web site that the bottom of all fountains are blue printed in the factory during the assembly process. Not sure if that is true, or just what them mean, but that is what they say.
