Mike 35 Fountain

Why not buy the boat with the blowers.......sell them and put
money toward interior work?

PJDiesel

It's been discussed, I just really didn't want a big project. Plus, if I have the opportunity, I'd rather have the stepped hull.

Someone will likely get a GOOD deal on the one with the blowers.

PJDiesel

Well, I can't seem to win here.....

Just came back from my 265 mile road trip, got a chance to check out this SC in person. The vinyl wasn't as disturbing as the pictures, few minor things here and there, the back seat was totally made incorrectly and will allow the two outside passengers to sink down into the storage area (start over there).

Heres the great news, I pulled the dipsticks, port side appears normal, starboard.....not so much.

Milkshake, whole bottom side of the stick was whitish and milky every time I pulled it. Not to mention it was about 1 - 1.5" overfull.

The owner seemed real nice, down to earth. I let him know we had a potentially serious problem. He told me he had no knowledge of it whatsoever or it would have been looked at. He said they hadn't changed the oil prior to winterization. (which, later I told my wife would have been interesting, because I probably wouldn't have noticed anything)

Not sure what to think. He seemed willing to talk a little about the price, but that was before I noticed the water issue.
He said he is going to have his mechanic look at it asap and try to figure out what is going on.

Overall the boat seemed to be in good shape, I'm just totally lost on how to approach this issue.

Thoughts, suggestions......?

Dkahnjob

Even though the water in the oil problem could be as simple as a blown head gasket I wouldn't settle for anything less than a complete tear down of the engine. If it has been sitting all winter with water in the oil there is a good chance that there could be rust on the crank, and that will take the bearings out in short order. So, a tear down, pressure test all components (block, heads, etc.) and a rebuild is what I would want. Then you will have one fresh engine, and hopefully the other won't do the same thing.
good luck on the project.

89scarabIII

How was that center stringer, could you see it?

PJDiesel

Absolutely, could see it very well. Looked nice and solid, same with the area under the V-berth. Still a little moisture present, but also still nice and white under there (not brown, green and rotten). ALL the areas that were totally disgusting on the Boat Boys '95 were nice and solid looking on the boat this morning.

I'm not sure which approach to take with the starboard motor. Water separates to the bottom correct? Meaning, the lower internals wouldn't be exposed once it settles, right?

My first thought was to just try and negotiate off an entire rebuild, this way I could take my time, see where the intrusion was coming from, fix it, and have the loot for the tear down/ build up in the fall when the season is over.
Next, my bother in law recommend an interesting idea (not sure if it is workable or not).
1) Have this guys mechanic figure out what the deal is and remedy it. (assuming it is manifold,riser, gasket or maybe intake related).
2) Write up a contact that states that in the event there is water in the oil in the first 30 calender days the seller agrees to foot the bill for a total rebuild at the shop of my choice.

In this scenario, if the seller is confident of the fix and the fact that it was a freak occurrence and didn't cause any damage (as in, happened the last few minutes of the last run before winterization). Then he shouldn't have an issue with agreeing to the "warranty".

Then I got to thinking, if we are dealing with a cracked block this could get expensive fast.

PJDiesel

If there were rust on the crank, would it also be present at the bearings, how would in get in there? (I'm not fimiliar with how high the crank sits in reference to the pan).

Thanks for the tips, I was REALLY disappointed to see what I saw when I pulled the dipstick.

Dkahnjob

The crank is above the normal oil level, but when the oil and water emulsified that is how the water gets to the crank, with the oil under pressure from the oil pump. So even though the oil and water can seperate out when it sits in the sump (oil pan), the water that could be doing damage was pumped to the crank with the oil pump. The bearings won't rust. If you can make the right deal as is, and then it is on your nickel, you could try running it without a tear down after the source is located and repaired. But if it is his $$, then go for the tear down and inspection.

I have gone through this on the engine in my flat bottom. The source was water reversion coming in through the exhaust, because of too much cam overlap (too big of a cam for wet exhaust). Also had it with a blown head gasket and warped head.

PJDiesel

Thank you (again).

Honestly, I'm at a loss for what the "right" deal is.

The guy seems very straight forward, from what I could tell he was genuinely shocked at what I was telling him about the motor. I am waiting to hear from him on what is supposed to be the problem, and proposed remedy.

pookie

do the contract if the seller will. Best case: good deal and it's fixed. Worst case: hassel but you're covered.