SR-71

My 38EC is starting to show a few signs of windshield frame corrosion. Rather than going the power-coat or painting route, I'd prefer to replace the frame with stainless. I assume Fountain must have contracted their windshield frames. Does anyone know the manufacturer of their frames, or any company that could supply a stainless frame for the 38EC?

mapism

I can't actually answer your question, but I would suggest to consider the alternative of sandblasting and anodizing the existing frame.
Just anodizing, NOT powder coating or painting.
It'll last as much as s/steel, at a fraction of the cost.

jeff32

same here on a 47 fountain 2006. can't believe how rusted it has becomed...

soldier4402

I know it sounds funny but try rustoleum. I dont know what you have on your boat, but I had a crowline with some issue, they were black. Went over them with black rustoleum and looked like new and lasted 2 years until I got rid of the boat.

38fountainecman

SR-71: I had the same issue on mine. Contacted Fountain and Taylor Made two years ago and Fountain obtained the raw aluminum extrusions directly from Taylor Made and formed and cut the frames at the Fountain factory to fit the boat. Actually, my port and starboard bottom rails are slightly different in length. I think Fountain also cut the acrylic windshield panels. You might be able to send Taylor Made your frame and panels and they could make a stainless frame to fit. I also like the anodizing idea. I painted mine red to match the boat sides and they are holding up pretty well, just two small corrosion spots where the frame meets the boat at the screw locations on the starboard side. Good luck.

mcprodesign

Must use epoxy primer. The paint on mine was like that. I saw no epoxy primer under.. Powder coat needs something besides aluminum to stick to because aluminum excretes oil. If you use epoxy primer it will hold up. Also the plastic washers on the screws ( w Grease) is important. You can blast the pitted areas but I recomend sanding it off. It will make the primer stick better. Etch primer might be an alternative as well. Anodize will only be certain colors.. I hope this helps. Stainless is real heavy as you probly know.

bob_t

Fountain did their own powdercoating, at their factory. One big problem with powdercoating aluminum is that once you get a breach in the powdercoat from anything like a drilled hole for a screw, or a nick in it (from the "snap on" cockpit cover snaps that they used), corrosion starts and depending on environment, can spread like cancer. As long as the powdercoated surface remains "sealed", ie, no cuts, nicks, holes, etc, there is no exposure to oxygen and/or moisture (H2"O"), and no corrosion. Unfortunately, most marine environments have high humidity and .... water! Will still happen on a fresh water boat, but accelerated in salt environment. You usually see the "bubbling" start around a screw hole, or where one of the snaps are installed (the snap cuts into/through the powdercoat). Before Fountain started using the plastic washers under the screws on the painted dashboards and shifter/thottle, you would get bubbling around almost every screw hole, there, too, from cracks in the paint/powdercoat. Hope this helps.

SR-71

Thanks for the great input from all.

I wasn't aware Taylor Made also supplies windshield framing. I'll definitely to check into it. Ideally, I prefer to go with stainless or anodized aluminum to create a long term fix. As mentioned, hardware, (and I guess even the sliding snaps) will eventually scratch the painted or powder coated surface and provide an entry point for corrosion to start.

This will be a winter time project. I'll post the before/after results. Thanks again.