Wes Burmark

I think that I may have the hand valve and the faucet valve positions mixed up... What is the proper position for each valve when running the engine(s) on the hose? I thought I had them set correctly but the port side has water flowing out the lower unit holes on both sides as well as the front part of the bullet. The other side doesn't do this.

I have an appointment (didn't feel like standing on my head to do this task) to have both water pumps (impellers) rebuilt and I don't want to mess this up. Pictures/diagrams would be welcome.

BTW replacing the fuel/water separators in the cool-fuel set up was a breeze. It took a little under 50 minutes to do both motors. A 10mm box wrench and a pair of needle nose pliers (to get the screen out for cleaning) was all that was needed.

Spinletto

iTrader: (1)

This is right out of the owners manual:

Engine fresh water flush: This option allows you to flush out your engine of saltwater and silt after a trip. This system can be used at dockside, trailer or on a hoist. It is also used to run the engine(s) while the boat is out of the water for diagnostic and troubleshooting service. Use this step-by-step procedure as follows:
Engine flush valves are located inside the engine compartment on the inner transom above each of the engine drive gimbals. The garden hose fitting for the flush system is located above the flush valves on the center of the engine compartment lip.
Make sure that the boat attitude is NOT bow down. Raise the bow of the boat to get the engine exhaust tips to angle downward so as to insure that flush water does not flow back into the exhaust pipes, and thus into the engine. Severe engine damage will occur is water is ingested by the engine(s) through the exhaust pipes.
Remove the spin-off cap on the garden hose fitting, and let it hang on the chain. Attach garden hose to the fitting. Make sure that the garden hose is not kinked or turned off during the flushing procedure. Failure to do so will result in engine overheating and possible damage.
RUN ONLY ONE ENGINE at a time using it's corresponding flush valve. Do not run the engine until water is observed running out of the exhaust pipes. Failure to do so will damage the water pumps and overheat the engine(s).
Failure to return the flush valve back to the run position after flushing will cause engine overheat, and will result in serious engine damage.
On one valve only, throw the yellow handle ball valve up (in-line with the valve body) to open the line from the garden hose inlet to the engine. Close the gate valve to shut off water flow back through the drive.
Turn on the garden hose all the way, and wait for water to come out of the exhaust pipes.
Start the engine corresponding to the valve you just set up to flush, and run the engine (at idle) the desired time to flush out the engine. Continually monitor the engine gauges while flushing to verify engine temperature.
When finished flushing, shut down the engine first, and then turn off the garden hose. Return the engine flush valve to the run position (turn the ball valve to the off position, perpendicular to the valve body, open the gate valve by turning counterclockwise).
Repeat the procedure for each engine.

Make sure that you return the flush valve to the run position as described above. Failure to do so will result in damage to the water pump, and may cause severe engine damage.
Remove the garden hose from the fitting, and re-cap the fitting.

It shows the ball valve (the strait handle) pointing left to right or up and the gate valve (the circular handle) needs to be all the way clockwise to flush.

I hope this helps!

Wes Burmark

Spinletto,

Many thanks for the great info. In the morning I will go out and see if I have both engines set correctly for in water use.

Wes Burmark

Spinletto,
Just curious, what motors do you have and what water pressure do you have at idle and in the upper r.p.m. ranges?

Spinletto

iTrader: (1)

My setup’s a little different. I’ve just got a single Ilmor 625 so for me I just hook the garden hose to the fitting in the engine compartment, turn the hose on, and start the engine. I normally will block the hole on my outdrive with my hand until I feel resistance and then start but I’m not able to get water to come out of my tailpipes until the engine is running.
As far as my water pressure goes if I remember right at idle the needle is somewhere between 2-5psi and at cruise speed, which is about 4500 rpm or 50 mph or so it’s somewhere between 15-20psi. At WOT it’s a little higher obviously.