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Rebuilding Bravo Waterpumps

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Old 05-22-2012, 07:11 PM
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Default Rebuilding Bravo Waterpumps

I took a look at where I think the water pumps are located (facing the back of the boat - lower left-hand side) and it looks like I would have to stand on my head to get to them - twin 6.2s in a 29' Fever. The local repair shop has blown by two delivery dates and the boat is just sitting in his yard. Needless to say I would have preferred an honest estimate of when the boat would be ready to broken promises...

Did I wuss out here not rebuilding these myself? Is it easier to get them disconnected from the engines that it looks? I have info from the net on how to replace the impeller but they talk about fuel lines being a part that has to be dealt with. Anyone have first hand experience removing and rebuilding? Or should I just chill and hope the shop finishes my boat before it's time to winterize?
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Old 05-22-2012, 08:21 PM
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It should be a plastic housing that holds the impeller and you can buy the entire kit (housing and impeller) for a little over $100 (not sure the pricing lately).......It will take you awhile but they can be replaced by laying on top of the motors and working at them. Don't get frustrated, it will not be easy but it can be done.
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Old 05-22-2012, 08:57 PM
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I just replaced them on my 32. It will take an hour a motor. $115 parts per motor. You can do it yourself. Take your time. You could have parts the came apart from your old sea pump in water line. Check them out.
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Old 05-22-2012, 09:56 PM
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I've changed water pump impellers on a pair of 6.2's in the past. Biggest PIA was getting the hoses off, and if I remember correctly, those pumps were metal end cap with metal body and used shaped "O" rings for seals. Those water pumps take their own special impeller, not the same as the typical Bravo boats with BBC's. Still not as bad as changing water pumps in a pair of 500's in a 29 ... done that a time or two, too. On the 500's found that it was much easier to disconnect the fuel lines from the fuel pump and remove the whole unit .... also allows you to change the oil in the fuel pump cavity, easily, too. Didn't need to mess with anything other than getting the hoses off, on the 6.2's. What I remember, though, it was like sticking your hands/arms in a box of razor blades because of the sharp corners on the hose clamps and going mostly by feel.
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Old 05-24-2012, 11:22 AM
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Bob, any suggestions as to where I can purchase the whole rebuild kit ( 47-862232A2 Pump Kit (latest style, serial number 0M3000000 and up) ? All I have found online is impeller and o-ring kits. I'm assuming it would be safer to replace both the impeller and housing?

Am I correct in reading your post that the 6.2 water pumps do not have fuel lines connected to them?
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Old 05-24-2012, 11:58 AM
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they are all more or less the same:
http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/g...-impellor.html
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Old 05-24-2012, 05:53 PM
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What Wally wrote is right on target ... especially for the typical bravo equipped BBC boats. The 6.2's is different, but in a generic sense, the same: remove hoses (remember which one goes where), remove pump from boat, remove back cover, change impeller/new o-ring seal and rest is just reverse order. I don't remember having to remove any fuel lines, but it has been ~6 years ago, since changing those impellers. I don't think the 6.2 has the same wear issues with the body and aft end plate that the 496's have. All I replaced was the impeller and o-ring and had no further issues with them. I'm 100% sure the impeller/body is not the same as that used in the BBC's. I always have a spare kit for a BBC in my truck, and the impeller is significantly different, as I found out when I got what was left of the impeller out and compared it to the one I had in the truck . On most single BBC's, especially if you have the plastic body, you can replace the body/impeller without even removing the pump from the boat ... done that several times. I don't remember any "body/impeller kit" being available for the 6.2 seawater pump, just the impeller/o-ring kit.

Last edited by bob_t; 05-24-2012 at 06:38 PM.
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Old 05-24-2012, 10:18 PM
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Bob & Wally, thanks for the great information. I got another tip from a dealer in Seattle WA. He said the pump body is bronze and was not likely to be worn. That is why I have only seen impeller and 0-ring kits available. The shop where I took my boat FINALLY started on it only to pull the guy off to work on someone else's boat. I wanted the water pumps rebuilt and the drives checked and aligned if needed, & fluids changed. Doesn't this sound like a days work or less? They've had the boat for 9 days so far... Next season I'll be doing my own work or taking my boat to a shop that believes in first in, first out.
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Old 05-25-2012, 09:53 PM
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I would hope a lot less than a day's work .... at ~ $90 per hour, 8 hours work would put you at ~ $1200 including fluids and impeller kits. Shops around where we live (Cinci, OH) are charging right at $98 per hour. It took me about 1 hour each for the impeller change outs, and about another hour (total) for drive oil/engine oil/filter/fuel filter change, for each engine (drain drive oil while changing engine oil, and changing filters). If they pull the drives to check alignment, that is probably another hour (total, removing 8 bolts total, slide the drive out, insert tool, and then re-install drive) and they would do that after draining the drive oil. Since you have the 6.2's they probably use standard mercury adjustable engine mounts, and not the solid race bracket (which are not adjustable), they could adjust if necessary, but I doubt they would need any adjustment. Just totalling up parts and labor (~ 5 hrs at 90 per hr), I would bet your bill will be around $700 - $900. I could do all this (minus the drive alignment, since I had the solid race mount) for ~ $200, myself in my single engine 29 ( 500 EFI, 575SCi, or 525 EFI - I had one of each, at various times) and that included a new seawater pump body/impeller, Mercury drive oil, Mercury semi-synthetic engine oil and Mercury fuel/water filter and Mercury Racing oil filter, just for reference.

Last edited by bob_t; 05-25-2012 at 10:41 PM.
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Old 05-25-2012, 10:15 PM
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I have the same ones 06 Formula they are not bad to do. And you just need the impeller. If the pump has been replaced the updated one does have a wear plate but if they are original they do not. Unless the front seal is leaking just change the impeller, if the seal is leaking buy new pump. I usually unbolt the fuel pump boxes and lay them to the side It sounds like more work but once you do that the hoses are right there. PM me your cell and i will walk you through it if you end up doing it next year.
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