99 32 Fever A/C install?
08-19-2013, 06:53 PM
#21
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Well that works. Nice install.
Im going in another direction. I think it will work also. I would like to run AC on the lift. If not I'm going the route you went with, seems like the only other way to go.
Thanks.
Im going in another direction. I think it will work also. I would like to run AC on the lift. If not I'm going the route you went with, seems like the only other way to go.
Thanks.
08-19-2013, 07:05 PM
#22
Charter Member
What do you have in mind?
I've heard of one person that just used the dock side water to run his AC. I think his was setup to run water constantly. Guess you could use a solenoid valve to open/close the water flow, wired up to operate instead of the pump with a simple 2 pos switch to choose between the 2. Providing the marina doesn't mind.
My slip neighbor runs his on the lift too. Instead of using the hose to prime, he just primes it by shaking the hose under water forcing the water thru the hose.
I've heard of one person that just used the dock side water to run his AC. I think his was setup to run water constantly. Guess you could use a solenoid valve to open/close the water flow, wired up to operate instead of the pump with a simple 2 pos switch to choose between the 2. Providing the marina doesn't mind.
My slip neighbor runs his on the lift too. Instead of using the hose to prime, he just primes it by shaking the hose under water forcing the water thru the hose.
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Some people are like Slinkies - Not really good for anything, but they
bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.
Some people are like Slinkies - Not really good for anything, but they
bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.
08-19-2013, 08:03 PM
#23
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Yes!
solenoid was the way I was thinking... On and off. I'm not in a marina so that wont be an issue. other option > I also have seen guys use the small compact spot coolers not "hatch shakers" that are 6500btu that work great but always in the way and take up room in the cabin! I may do a fixed install in the closet and cut a 4" hole through the wall under the dash install round plastic vent for the heat discharge duct (unlike the water cooled units) Cut a nice return air vent in the closet door like you did on your door. Wire a GFI plug in there from the shore power panel and add the breaker. They do have a drip pan that I would tie into the through hull fitting that is already in the back of my closet. The supply "cold" duct would run behind the panel that runs along where the deck meets the hull side where the indirect lights are mounted but im thinking of just doing a single discharge vent coming out of the front/side wall of the head. Or cut in a few 4" vents along that wide upper trim piece that covers the indirect lights. I will wire a remote switch for cooling and fan speed. No water needed at all and could run on an inverter with a battery bank if I needed.
solenoid was the way I was thinking... On and off. I'm not in a marina so that wont be an issue. other option > I also have seen guys use the small compact spot coolers not "hatch shakers" that are 6500btu that work great but always in the way and take up room in the cabin! I may do a fixed install in the closet and cut a 4" hole through the wall under the dash install round plastic vent for the heat discharge duct (unlike the water cooled units) Cut a nice return air vent in the closet door like you did on your door. Wire a GFI plug in there from the shore power panel and add the breaker. They do have a drip pan that I would tie into the through hull fitting that is already in the back of my closet. The supply "cold" duct would run behind the panel that runs along where the deck meets the hull side where the indirect lights are mounted but im thinking of just doing a single discharge vent coming out of the front/side wall of the head. Or cut in a few 4" vents along that wide upper trim piece that covers the indirect lights. I will wire a remote switch for cooling and fan speed. No water needed at all and could run on an inverter with a battery bank if I needed.
08-19-2013, 08:31 PM
#24
Just goes to show there are more than 1 way to cool it down. Keep in mind you have to have an given amount of discharge venting and air supply for trouble free operation, otherwise poor circulation creates a problem of the unit freezing up. Air flow, both in and out, is your friend.
Used the hatch air for 2 seasons. Worked great, but the hassle of using it became a pain. Plus the fear of dropping it. It was always left on the dock, so never a storage problem, yet.....
Good Luck and keep us posted on your install.
Used the hatch air for 2 seasons. Worked great, but the hassle of using it became a pain. Plus the fear of dropping it. It was always left on the dock, so never a storage problem, yet.....
Good Luck and keep us posted on your install.
__________________
Some people are like Slinkies - Not really good for anything, but they
bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.
Some people are like Slinkies - Not really good for anything, but they
bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.
08-29-2013, 08:36 AM
#25
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Sooo.... I had a 6200btu unit that I tried. Fail. Its way to hot down in FL for that unit prob good for MI. So my first plan is filed in the can. And it works great on the patio next to me in the chair by the pool. I did make a move and going to pick up a Mermaid unit here in Fort Myers today. I went to the Factory the other day. They are American made! with 5 year warranty. They were so nice and gave us a tour of the whole factory. They built me a 9000btu unit and have all the parts i need for the install at the factory. I'm started on it and should be done this weekend. Going behind sink in front of the cooler.
