HyFive578

iTrader: (3)

I already have what you are describing. My tailpipes go all the way through the transom and are dry ALL the way until 3/4" of the very end of the pipe, ie: the water dumps outside the transom. The only thing that would make them "drier" would be to reroute the water coming from the jumper hose to an external dump which would leave the pipe uncooled and I think that is not a good idea.

302Sport

No, what we are saying is that you weld the current holes closed and you relocate them on the outside wall so basically the water is spraying outside instead of inside the pipe. Or you can ad another bung on the outside at the end of the pipe and let the water dump from it (outside of the transom). The key is that the water is never sprayed anywhere inside the pipe, it all exits on the outside.

payuppsucker

No, to make them dry you would weld a fitting back at the end of the pipe as close to the transom as possible and dump the water from there. That way the pipe is cooled completely.

payuppsucker

Look at the Gil exhaust Moxy has in swap shop right now to see what we're talking about.

payuppsucker

But I'll tell you they are loud to the point of being annoying to some. Mine are 675 per side dry and I get smart ass comments on a regular basis when I'm docking at a restaurant/bar or at the ramp. When I shut the motors off it's usually a "thank you, damn now we can talk again" or something to that effect.

payuppsucker

If you go this route I'd just weld the fitting in to dump the water as close to the transom as possible and not close up the holes inside the pipe just yet. Run it ans see if you still have reversion. If you still have it then close the holes inside. I believe dumping "some" of the water off might do the trick but I could be wrong.

302Sport

I would just close them, do it once, be done with it and totally eliminate that as your problem.

payuppsucker

The only reason I suggested leaving them open is it might not be quite as loud with some water back there but yes, you close them off it's a done deal then. My pipes were dry to the tip like HyFive's but I also had a small amount of reversion, (SM system however), and I ended up closing the holes inside off completely and dumping just inside the transom.

HyFive578

iTrader: (3)

I agree but the possibilities are few at this point. Could be sticky valves but IMO, not likely because when I changed valve springs two weeks ago, I checked the operation of every single valve and all were good except the one that was stuck but I'm 99.9% sure that was the result of the reversion and not vice versa. My primary suspicion now is that water (most likely condensation) is creeping back up the inside of the pipe from extended periods of time spent idling and the exhaust pulse is sucking that water back in. Makes sense. Water temps are colder now. Colder water hitting hot exhaust leaving droplets inside the pipes; idling for a long time and then the exhaust pulse sucks that right up the pipe. I ran the boat for close to 80 hours this summer and just discovered the problem recently. The evidence in the exhaust ports is minimal leading me to believe that its not a large volume of water and if it was reverting all summer, I would have hung a valve a lot sooner IMO. Going to make a conscious effort to "clear" the pipes more when idling and see what happens. thanks for all feedback and ideas.

payuppsucker

Let us know how things turn out. Are you still doing the Hudson Run this weekend?