Re: winterising 496
 

The 496's can be a head ache to winterize even when doing the things as they should be done...

As discussed on OSO, when you flush the water using the air pump, it can be difficult to get water or antifreeze back in with the ear muffs. I would think it's a poor design because I never ran trough this problem with other engines and it seems I am not alone with that issue. Go figure... If you get the boat in the water, the water will get straight out of the exhaust...

Last week, I had to rev intermittently to 1500-2000 rpms so the dam..ned antifreeze finally came out the exhausts. Do I want to fry an impeller or a pump or exhaust valves? NO

I do not trust those engines on ear muffs...

This year, I filled the block with a 50/50 pre-mixed green automotive antifreeze witch is rated up to -37 Celsius.

BTW, there are many pink antifreeze manufactured. You don't want to use the plumbing pink antifreeze witch do not contain rust preservatives. If you go for the pink stuff, ask your supplier for the good stuff.

Here is what I will do next year and I'l feel comfortable with it:

1- On the last trip, I'l add the stabil and fuel in the thank and I'l ride for at least 15 minutes.

2- I will not flush the water out the block period. I will use 7-8 gallons 100% green automotive antifreeze witch will eventually mix with any remaining water pockets. Since the system holds 3 gallons, I see no reasons why there should be any remaining water after a 7-8 gallons 100% antifreeze shower? (I'l fill the water/fuel separator with 3 OZ of 2 cycle outboard oil after the first 5 gallons bucket of antifreeze and I'l start the engine with another antifreeze bucket containing 2-3 gallons of 100% antifreeze till it smokes)

My opinion, any inputs welcomed.

Neil, I think Lisa got mail.

Peter, Don't pay to much attention at those young rookies comments :p

Re: winterising 496
 

First off I use the pink anti-freeze because it's safer than the green around my dog, plus the neighbors all have dogs and cats.

I also called several manufactures of the pink stuff and asked if it was o.k. for what I was using it for, ( I also use it in the jet-ski's) and they said it was fine.

I haven't had a problem gravity feeding..

I pump all the water out and let it fully drain, then release the pressure. Then I use the muffs (gravity fed) w/ a piece of garden hose and a large funnel pouring in approx 3 gallons until it comes out the tail pipes, pop off the fuel filter, dump out 3/4 of the gas and pour in 2-stroke oil, then re-start the motor while pouring an additional one gallon of anti-freeze with the motor fogging, then use the air pump to pump all the anti-freeze out.

P.S. after seeing this post i'm wondering if it would be better to leave it in,, less corrosion with it full than empty, But, I left a bottle of pink stuff on my porch one cold night and it got a little slushy,,,, so now i'm not sure..

Re: winterising 496
 

Maybe I'm missing something here but the way I see it is the 496 block is already full of antifreeze. The only water in the system is in the heat exchanger and exhuast which is evacuated by the pump. If it was not a sufficient method of removing the water from these areas, I promise Merc would not put it in the manual and risk warranty cost issues. The block is full of very good antifreeze with corrosion protection at all times.
This was nicely engineered to be easy by Merc; Let's not complicate it :rolleyes:
Dave

Re: winterising 496
 

Does anybody fog their efi motors by pulling the flame arrestor and spraying fogging oil directly into the intake? (Much easier than pulling the fuel filter.) My mechanic said he was told by a merc racing tech that is the way they do it.

Re: winterising 496
 

Glad all went well. I forgot to mention, but I am sure you know, to make sure you get pink to shoot out of the transom shower too, (if you have one).

( -This is for a 37 Active Thunder- )

Here is my tip for the step-pump. Does your boat have drain plugs on the bottom of the boat, on the back of the step? If so, this is a good thing. Mine does not, but I have other friends whose boats do have them.

I do not have a switch to turn the step pump on and off. I wish I did. (Its on a 2.5 minute timer that enacts when your cabin power is engergized.) Your boat may have an access panel in the shower wall, that facing the cabin entry steps, so you can open and get to the pump, if not, you can't get to it.

-Jack the nose of the boat WAY up in the air.
-Turn the cabin power switch on.
-Get out your shop vac, and stick the suction hose over the small thru-hull fitting on the port side of the boat, where the step bilge pump shoots out of. This will probably pull some water out of the bottom of the boat (mine always does).
-Turn the cabin power off.
-Pour about two gallons of pink down the shower drain, and turn on the cabin power. The step bilge pump should turn on and shoot some pink out the side of the boat.

That's what I do. Call me if you need clarification.

Re: winterising 496
 

BIG NO NO !!!!!!

This will fook up everything.

You MUST pull the fuel filter and fill your fuel filter with 50% two-stoke oil. (I use Mercury two stroke oil.)

Your computer's MAF sensor and other sensors (temp, etc.) in the air intake system work well reading air passing through them. The oil being 'fogged' in will destroy them. Your mechanic works on too many carbed boats.

Re: winterising 496
 

Heat exchanger.
Oil Cooler.
Hoses.
Water Pump assembly.
Crossovers.
Exhaust System.

All of these components have WATER passing through them, NOT factory closed cooling antifreeze. Refer to my previous posts. I trust my mechanic's advice. They were not drumming up business as they know I do my winterizing. They were also not drumming up business for replacing blocks in the spring. Do it the old fashioned way. There are pockets that will still hold water if you mearly use the air-pump system. There are several pressure release valves on the 496 X water side of the cooling system, and I have had them go bad before. (To little pressure, too much pressure.) The only 100% safe bet is to do it the old fashioned way with running pink through the entire system.

The Merc manual also states you have to pull the ends off the heat exhanger to allow water to pour out. That is a pain as well.

Re: winterising 496
 

Like Brian said, pockets of water,, running the pink through the sea water pump/exchanger/exhaust guarantees your safe.

I always re-pumped the pink stuff out and left everything as evacuated as possible but like was mentioned it might be better to leave things full than empty..

Re: winterising 496
 

tell me if i did this right. i have a 496 ho.i changed my fuel filters and then hooked up a tank (6 gal. gas,quart 2 cycle oil , fuel stablizer) throught the filters and ran boat for 20 min. drained with air pump then ran boat for another few minutes running antifreeze through it( i have a fitting on the side that runs through the motor). then changed oil and filter and also changed the spark plugs. cleaned air filter. is there any thing else i need to do or am i ok.

Re: winterising 496
 

What I do is pull the fuel filter, dump 3/4 of the gas out and fill w/ two stroke right before I add the last gallon of anti-freeze, then replace with a new fuel filter. In your case I would pull each plug and spray fogging oil in the cylinders, then pull the lanyard and tap the key a couple of times. The quart of 2-stroke in the 6 gallons isn't the way to do it..

Also, you need to stabalize the fuel that is IN YOUR GAS TANK.