My advice passed here on the board is from my mechanic, (John Smith aka Pwrbt33 here on OSO). And he was not drumming up business, as he knows I do my own work.

There are a couple of threads in the Technical Discussion area about this, that have also been brought to the top. The Heat Exchanger does not get completely evacuated of water by the air pump. Several people have found this out the hard way. I am glad you have not been one of those unfortunate ones. Also, you boat in fresh water, so residual salt and associated rust potential is not as great of an issue for you.

I've always been a bit concerned about not running anitfreeze through the heat exchanger but to date I've had no problems. I boat on a nuclear power plant cooling lake so I usually boat at least once or twice during the winter months if we get a nice day. Therefore I just purge the water knowing I will most likely be going back out a few more times after "winterizing". I would not advocate to someone to do what I do. Just pointing out that some of us can get away with it...at least up to this point!

Sydwayz

Nice setup!

I am following your procedure for winterize. Do you think I would be ok with just gravity feed from a 5-gal pale on the swim platform and hose running down to my muffs? (low water pick-up taped shut)

Is the pink stuff harder for the impeller to suck in or something?

Thx

Very interesting reading, but!
 

If the boat is used in fresh water and stored in a shelter with an automatic antifreeze heating system, is the engine winterization still useful?
This year I'm dealing with a 496HO boat for the first time, and I would like to treat it properly.
But I had other boats in the past, used and stored in the same conditions (though always with carb blocks): never did anything at all, and never had any trouble.
The same goes for all other boats stored in the same marina, btw.

NQ,
I recommend the Winterizing Kit. Gravity feed never did well for me and that was with the 5 gallon jug atop a 10' ladder feeding INTO the garden hose fitting heading directly to the SWP. Hence why I went with the pressurized jug. NOT to mention you are relying on pulling the antifreeze UP the outdrive and through the transom assembly, which is all filled with air (unless you do the hose prime method). You can (easily) burn up an impeller in seconds.

Muffs SUCK!!! Especially for winterizing.

mapism,
What happens if the power goes out due to a bad (& cold) winter storm? I'd do a full winterization without hesitation. It's not worth the risk.
1 hour & less than $100.US of supplies vs. a new engine block...

I learned the hard way last year. The prior year i did just the air pump on my 496 well the heat exchanger had water in it froze and busted. The next year the lake water mixed with the coolant then during the winter froze and broke the block. From now on it gets 5 gallons of coolant, it was a very expensive lesson. I live in Ga and it doesn't get that cold for that long dont be lazy do it right.

EXACTLY MY POINT! Thank you very much for explaining your experience. Maybe it will help others.

I always check the strength of the DexCool in the reservoir before putting the boat away for the winter. In fact. I plan to replace the DexCool as it is now 5 seasons old.

Even though I never had any problems just purging the water, last season I ran antifreeze through the raw water system after purging the water. Brian (Sydwayz) badgered me into doing it! :drink:

I get a kickback on every bottle of pink stuff. But you still ran in the spring right? :D :D

Great point on checking the integrity of the Dexcool Antifreeze as well.

The manual calls for 5 year replacement. I went into my 6th season this spring, and sure enough mine had silted up, was not efficiently cooling, and required a flushing and full replacement.

Just to clarify, after running the pink through, are you suggesting to pump the rest out with the handle pump? Or just leave the residual in there.

Thanks