Offshoreonly.com - Towing a 40ft boat

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Re: Towing a 40ft boat

I agree with the Putnam XDR. Put one on my F250.
A&N Trailer in Tulsa, Ok have them for $175.

Re: Towing a 40ft boat

Best advice in this thread.
Just pulled a 38 Fountain Express, about 16,000 lbs, with 1 ton single axle GM Duramax. Too much tongue weight without a weight distributing hitch. Same boat tows much better with a dually.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tonto

Mild,
Since you have electric brakes on the trailer, I would definitely get an appropriately sized set of weight distribution bars with anti-sway bars. This will keep the sway down when you pass the semis or they pass you. Also, the weight distribution bars will load the whole truck, not just the rear end. I put the bars on my truck/trailer last year before coming to Chicago and it made a BIG difference. I takes the bounce out of the rig, especially on I-65 in Indiana and Kentucky. I would make sure that the brakes are adjusted properly, or if you are re-doing the trailer, look at putting disc brakes on it. Make sure you have good tires and can carry the appropriate weight. I am a big fan of drive guards on trailers also. On the weight of the boat, SeaRay says in their brochure that my 400EC weighs 16,000#s, and both travel lifts that it has been in says it weighs 21,000#s, so you can't just rely on the brochure. I hope this helps. There are a number of guys in Chicago that do alot of towing that should be able to help you.

Robert

Re: Towing a 40ft boat

Quote:

Originally Posted by dockrocker

Yup, I'm putting a Putnam on my 2005 F-250. The stock Ford unit is junk - rated for only 5K?!?!?! WTF - my truck is rated for 12K and FoMoCo puts a factory hitch rated at 5K on it :rolleyes:

Shop near me has the Putnam for about $280.

Mike,

I ordered mine from here, shipping was around $25 including a second package for a HD ball and ball mount. Installation was removing 8 bolts, throwing the factory hitch in the trash, and bolting up the new one.

http://www.etrailerpart.com/Receiver...rdtrucknew.htm

Re: Towing a 40ft boat

i pulled 11 ton boat one time with a 3500 chevy 454

Re: Towing a 40ft boat

Quote:

Originally Posted by Blitzkrieg

Comments like this show how truly clueless you are. There is no difference between the F250 and F350 springs. Only difference is a 2" versus a 4" spacer giving the axle more height.

I've pulled the Z33 Donzi on a steel trailer at a weight over 13K# with no problems in my 2WD F250 diesel.

Listen to those who know... check the trailer brakes, tires and bearings. Be sure you know your lengths around corners and keep both hands on the wheel during crosswinds.

what the f are you talking about azzhole....I never said anything about what u are talking about...another moron!...there used to be a big differance back in the day with springs.....but I did not comment about them....c,sucker....you guys got a couple of tow jobs with no real problems and you think it's ok....pleeeeze ***** i have towed alot of heavy crap for many years....lay down!

Re: Towing a 40ft boat

Quote:

Originally Posted by Byrdman

Take it easy!

Byrdman, I agree, a dually would be ideal for towing my boat. But, on the other hand, you made it sound as if I was asking if I can tow it with a Ford Ranger. The Ford superduties are pretty stout trucks, especially when equipped with the diesel. If I had a expedition, or yukon I wouldnt do it. For starters, those trucks are basically half ton trucks. Short wheel bases, much less weight carrying capacity, small brakes, etc. Not to mention most of them are only rated to pull 8500 lbs. If I did decide to tow it far, I'd really only be exceeding fords' rating of 12500 by maybe 1000 lbs. Thats not nearly as bad or dangerous as some of the people you see pulling 30ft boats with Ford Explorers. What about back in the 70's when people towed their 25ft boats with a Chevy caprice! Thats just crazy!

id actually love a dually truck for myself, but living in the city there just aint no where to park it.

Re: Towing a 40ft boat

Quote:

Originally Posted by el indio

Jack LaLane pulls his boat with his teeth,wearing only his underware..............you be ok 3quater ton...............m.m.........

time for a little humor!!!!!!!!!..even if its mine............

Re: Towing a 40ft boat

Mild,
I towed my 38 Cigarette with a 2000 V10 Excursion down to the Ozarks a couple years ago and it did just fine. I have the weight distributing bars and I would not tow with out them they make a big difference. My brother took a full cabin 41 Apache to Florida with a Ford F350 SRW crew cab short bed with a diesel and he said it towed excellent. Like everyone elese said make sure you have good brakes all 6 wheels and you will be fine. Don't try to break any speed records and be safe.
Oh ya don't go by the boats brochure as far as weight goes. You are way over what they say. Mine is listed at 9500# propably closer to 12000#

Mark

Re: Towing a 40ft boat

Hey Mark your showing your age most of these guys have no idea who Jack LaLane is. :drink:

Mark

Quote:

Originally Posted by el indio

time for a little humor!!!!!!!!!..even if its mine............

Re: Towing a 40ft boat

Dually: really a lot more stable and safer, for you and the others on the road.

Never think that a trailer has anything like the reliability of your truck. They are just waiting to break down.

Be certain that the weight is equally distributed on the trailer, especially when actually on the road where the crown makes the boat lean to starboard, so the right trailer wheels take more load: try to load the boat with more stuff to port. If the trailer is not very level (measure it), then the forward or aft axle will take more load. Use a tape measure to precisely measure the distance from ground to trailer frame: low means heavy, high means light. Get it even, so the load is spread evenly.

Brakes: you can never have enough. Make certain they really work, and they do not drag. If one brake drags, it will heat that hub, and you'll blow that bearing over and over and over. Discs are more susceptable to dragging. Drums are more likely to fail, causing the remaining ones to do too much work and leading to overheating the hub and blowing the bearings.

Bearings: Make sure YOU know how to service them, and that you HAVE WITH YOU all the tools, the grease, the bearings, seals, caps, spare washers, nuts, and cotter pins, as well as jack(s) and jack stands, and gloves and plastic bags and de-greaser so you can replace the bearings if the blow up on the road.

Tires: Make sure your tires are new. More than 2 years and you are lucky if you make it.

INSPECT! Stop frequently and check all your hubs for heat, and all your chains and electrical connections. Stop after 1/4 mile, 2 miles, 5 miles, 10 miles, 20 miles, and never more than every 60 miles thereafter. As soon as you see grease coming from a hub (check inside and outside the wheel), you must lube that axle THEN AND THERE. Watch carefully for the hubs getting hot, and especially for any one hub getting hot. That is the only warnign you will get before failure.