Tommy is willing to work with us on his specific combination, and we're more than happy to work with him to make sure his carburetors do exactly what he wants to do. As we would with anyone on any combination.

FYI, Fart and Boob will be consulting on this project. Fart will be supervising the ratio of the mixture and Boob will be monitoring how tight the jet nipples are torqued.

I can not figure out your motivation, you waited a long time to start complaining it seems.

Personally I am happy to see a manufacturers management here (tech section)on an almost daily basis offering valuable tech info.

Regardless your problem, I wouldn't hesitate to buy their products, knowing the level of support that is available should there be an issue.

hey kenny did you really say you would sue him....... oh boy...... :D :evilb:

Sue him-----------YIKES

Thats what I was thinking. Doug is trying to make things right here. I would imagine if I had a problem in '06 I would have dealt with it back then. Give it up dude and stop bashing people.

Doug,
Removing the Inter. Air bleeds im my application
Helped the throttle response two fold, However the issues I have with the linkage is in the secondary side.
When I puchased the 1-1 from you it does not open the plates
to the exstent of the primary. It requires a bend in it to
get it even. If not bent properly this hangs on the secondary
slot. causing the secondary throttle plates to sometimes
hang open slightly.
Maybe a better idea would to have adjustable linkage
tie rod end style.

Any suggestions on getting them to idle?

The 1-1 links must be bent specifically for each carburetor (just like the slip links do on the small carburetor from us or Holley) to get WOT. There are a couple of things we can do to help with the idle, I'm still going to recommend putting the Power Valves back in since that will help the idle tremendously. If you'll shoot me an email we can go through the steps I'd take pretty easily.

Doug

Really didnt think the P/V,s had anything to do with Idle.
I will put them back in. The only reason why I took them
out was that as soon as I crack the throttle the PSI builds
boost. I will put them back in and drop jet size by 5.

The one thing that troubles me is when turning the idle screws
completly in . The motors are still at 1000rpm.
The plates are all set so the idle transfer slot looks like a square rectangle.
There pulling 12hg vacuum at idle.
The rear plugs will get Black as the ace of spades
within minutes of idling.

I currently run Demons and ran Demons on my last motors...They have been flawless. The only thing I did was Locktite the bolts on the base plate as it was not done at the factory. Other than that, the typical idle adjustments and jetting is all that ever had to be changed....People need to rember that 98% of carburator problems are from not knowing how to properly tune them or improperly sized for the combo. Demons customer service has always been great in my experience..I called their tech line for an old motor to ask their opinion on going to larger sleves in a 632" NA tunnel ram motor that was turning 6500...they had a chance to sell me about $600 worth of parts to change it over, but really didn't think I'd benefit much by going from 2X775's to 875's or 925's so I left it alone.

Personally I think the BG Demons are far superior to what you get from Holly, especially for the money and I have run Holly as well. One thing that Holly guys need to keep in mind that I've found with the Demons is that a (2) jet size change in a Holly is about a (4) jet size change in a Demon...Rum runner could probably explain why...but its just something to keep in mind for reference.