I think it's when George Jefferson was moving on up. :D

Pad walk and chine walk are completely different animals. A pad bottom boat like a Velocity will allow you to feel how the boat is hooked up and allow you to make adjustments.

Chine walk is the bottom losing lift, usually because of too small a strake for the power/speed you're running. Essentailly, the bottom is losing lift and dropping back to the water. Many times, chine walk is a result of too much stern lift. At the beginning of walk, you can adjust your way through it. Powering into it is a bad idea- the boat can get into some severe oscillations and eventually bite in hard and hook. I bit one in hard enough to stick the tip of the bow under and roll it forward. Ouch.

Sometimes chine walk is telling you your x is wrong or you need to try a different prop. Worn steering components can be a significant contributing factor- it can also be a sign that your steering isn't up to the task. Given the option, most folks upgrade their engine power before upgrading the steering. Worn mounts on outboards can also be a contributing factor.

Oh, yeah- since so many people decided to make fun of your spelling error (chiMe), maybe it would help to clarify...

In boat terminology, the CHINE is the point (corner) where the bottom meets the side of a boat. The chine itself has little to do with chine walking. You could more accutrately call it strake walking but then people would look at you funny :)

Thats were I am at:eek: :drink: :drink:

I thought it was a Bee Gee's song!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:D :D
A Deeesco thing..:
party-smiley-020: :party-smiley-048:

WWWWEEEEELLLLLlllllll ,,, I hate to disagree with the x-perts on this thread,,, but ,,, if the hull is right/the bottem will not walk, it will track straight and level,,,, all of the steering in -put and tab's are just band-aids and your not correcting the cause!! ;)

RHC

You're absolutely right- to a point. All bottom designs are compromises. Less V, or a tapering V will give you better speed with a sacrifice in ride comfort. Changing the strake widths, lengths and placement will have dramatic effects on either speed, cornering, walking or a combination.

I'm with you, though. A well designed, well set-up boat shouldn't have an exaggerated walk.

Yeah, but.. On a single engine set-up, you have a prop paddle wheeling to thing in one direction. There is no symmetry there, and therefore we WALK.

RHC is right. A well-designed V hull won't exhibit a walk. Even in a single-engine application. By exhibit, I mean start the tendency without some kind of disturbance such as cross chop, wakes, etc.

And ... there are V-hulls with chine walks so violent and pervasive that not even the best, most experienced drivers/racers in the world cannot drive out of. That's a fact. Ask John Tomlinson.

But ... hats off the Allison guys, the bass boat guys and others who, at TUFFboat points out, can drive out of it. Their skill is unquestioned and impressive.

My Donzi Blackhawk, U19 and Pantera all had some kind of small handling "quirk" when trimmed out for every last mph. And I needed to learn how to drive them.