I will probably start with some B1 32's. That should give me an idea of what it will want. Plus, I have a set sitting here.:D
|
Originally Posted by Young Performance
(Post 2479736)
I will probably start with some B1 32's. That should give me an idea of what it will want. Plus, I have a set sitting here.:D
|
Nice. Thanks for the pics. Cool project. I've seen this boat on Clinton Lake. Are you going to relocate the sea strainers or can you access the tops from under the back seat?
|
Originally Posted by Young Performance
(Post 2477319)
I definetely think the transom will outlive us all. It is very strong. It needs to be with all that Young Performance power in it.:D:D:D
. . . In case of nuclear attack . . . climb in bilge . . . :D I dont know why it never occurred to me to run the grain on a 0-90 bias. Great idea! |
2 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by glassdave
(Post 2480025)
. . . In case of nuclear attack . . . climb in bilge . . . :D
I dont know why it never occurred to me to run the grain on a 0-90 bias. Great idea! |
Originally Posted by Young Performance
(Post 2470577)
What you are looking at is only the first layer of plywood. There are 2 more layers that went over that. That was put in that way to be able to fill the outside. I did not want to cut the outside of the transom and mess up the original glass and gelcoat. You just fill the outside and make it flush with what is already there. The inside then got 2 full layers of plywood with glass in between each layer and then over the top of the last layer. All layers of plywood are 90* to each other to prevent any flexing. It is probably stronger than it was, because the holes you see in the first pictures were open. They were there for the transmission to pass through the transom. Now the transom is solid and has the gimble tying it all together.
It is also almost a 1/2" thicker than it was. You guys are right, just patching a transom with a small piece of wood would not be sufficient in my opinion. Eddie Sure looks like it was patched, faired an glassed over to me, rather than just as a plug for glassing the outside. |
Originally Posted by Panther
(Post 2480097)
Are you saying the old transom was thin and you added extra plywood over top the old?
Sure looks like it was patched, faired an glassed over to me, rather than just as a plug for glassing the outside. Should be plenty strong |
Half an inch deeper should actually help lift the bow, as long as the prop is dialed in correctly.
|
Originally Posted by Wobble
(Post 2480103)
They patched layer 1, and glassed in two more layers of plywood over that for a total of 3 layers. Many transoms are only two layers of plywood in the first place.
Should be plenty strong Maybe pictures of the whole project would have been usefull to show the stages but the pics posted sure do look like it was patched and the thickness once the transom is cut out appears to be about two inches, so the old transom must have been REALLY thin...not a boat I'd want to buy to begin with. Not trying to start anything here but the extra pictures would have been really helpful. |
On mine, pictured above, we cut out the hole for the transom assy before we glassed the wood in so that we could use c-clamps as well as various jacks and boards, makes sure that everything is bonded immediately around the assy. They may have used the bolt holes for the same purpose
|
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:15 AM. |
Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.