toolman

Anyone out there towing alot of weight with a class III hitch? Having any problems? My truck came with that hitch and I don't want to have any problems towing my boat/trailer total weight of around 9000 lbs.
I know it would be better with a class IV, but it's a new truck and I've never heard of anyone breaking a class III. I do have a solid ball mount, so that's not an issue.

Thanks in advance for your comments.

Dave (toolman)

buck183

toolman,

You can double the capacity of any hitch w/ a weight distributing add on device for you hitch. If you are currently rated at 5k, then you will be good for 10k with this.

Keep this in mind though. Just because the hitch can handle 10,000 lbs doens't mean the vehicle can.

You should be able to buy a weight distribution device from any quality parts store, truck accessory store, or hitch retailer.

Good luck.

Buck
#183

Vonbongo

I don't think you can use surge brakes with a weight distribution hitch can you?

A class V hitch rated for 10,000 lbs is $200 why take the chance?

US1 Fountain

iTrader: (1)

Yes, as long as they are setup properly. The chains cannot be positioned to where they exert any pushing or pulling forces while driving.

BryanTuvell

I just lived the whole tow weight deal, ya da ya da....
old vehicle did fine class III, I was towing more than recommended.
For safety sake, get what your vehicle book recommends (hitch) there is a difference, stamps on a bumper or stickers on a hitch are just that. N/A
Upgrade your hitch, no load transferring jugga ma bob stuff...
You are not the first to be where you are. Like I said I was breaking the rules, I was lucky I did not have some kind of crisis etc...
What kind of truck do you have?

Me; 2001 F250 PSD 4x4

Good luck and be safe.
Bryan

thunderdan

I thought the same thing that you can not use a load equilizing hitch and surge brakes. I am going through the same thing. I have an PSD excursion with a crappy 5000lb weight carrying capacity with no aftermarket hitch repalcement avaliable.(except for the one that Nort has but I can not find anyone to weld it on for me) So I am being told I have to use a weight distributing hitch and can not use surge brakes? What is the deal? Help.

enticer

Bought a Titan V "Reese" hitch off e-bay...brand new for $125.00 plus shipping $30.00. You can also purchase a kit that adapts to the surge break trailer that does away with surge type setup and converts over to an electric brake on a hydraulic setup

Ron P

Why would you possibly consider pulling 9000lbs with an under rated hitch? What happens when it proves to you why it's rated for only 5000lbs? Will your insurance not cover you if they learn that the hitch broke because it was overloaded?

Is it worth the risk for the price of a tank of gas... get the right equipment so you don't loose the trailer a hurt another driver on the road.

boot

Toolman , Whats up ? I do hitches every day ,all day ! Stop by ,call, or e-mail me with what you have and I'll help you out .908-782-0688 .What truck do you have ? What is the rating on the hitch ? Class 3 dosen't mean much anymore .there should be a rating on it such as 5,000/10,000 or 6,000/12,000 etc. the smaller # 5000 is weight with hitch alone .larger # 10,000 is with weight distributing . You can use it if it is set right . Your chains need to be long enough to allow the coupler to move . The sweet thing would be to get rid of the serge coupler ,put the electric unit on that controls the hydraulic brakes . A little more $$$ but it's sweet ! You say you have a solid bar hitch head ? That is only rated for 7500lbs . Better then the hollow one @ 5,000. Also what is the ball rated at ? You should have at least a 10,000lbs ball . I can get them up to $35,000lbs ,so don't worry !!

Get in touch ,I'll set you up ! JOE

h2owarrior

The problem with using a class III hitch to tow 9000lbs is not tounge weight or normal towing. Its panick stops. The highest loads are generated during high acceleration rates (positive or negative). Think about how much quicker a car will stop than accelerate. In panick stops the class III hitch will have problems, will most likely yeild, could break or pull the attachment bolts out of the tow vehicle. Either way, its not good.

At minimum you should go with a classIV hitch. even a class IV only has a 7500 lb dead weight rating and 10,000lbs weight distributing. A class V will handle the 10,000lbs dead weight.

There are adapters that allow surge brakes to work with weight distributing hitches. I can get you the manufacturers name and number if your interested.

Also when buying your hitch, look for the V5 on the rating tag. V5 is a testing regiment that the industry uses as its standard when setting the ratings. Reese, DrawTite and all "factory" hitches use this system. Some local manufacturers do not.


Bigger is always better when it comes to towing around your pride and joy with the family in the tow vehicle.