New 650 EFI from Young Performance
 

Here are a few shots and a quick dyno vid of a new 650 EFI that I just finished. I have been playing around with some different combos in the never ending quest for more power. This engine has a set of AFR 335 cnc heads. This is the first time that I used them, and I have to say that I am pleased. My 650 typically makes 660-670 hp. This one made 701 hp (at 5800 rpm) with only 9.4:1 compression. I usually run a little more than that. With a little tweaking to the combo, I think that it will make 720-725 hp. It has the flatest torque curve of any NA engine I have ever built. It made a peak of 650 ft lbs at 5200 rpm(which is a little high), but it made only 30 ft lbs less at 4000 rpm and still made 640 ft lbs at 5700 rpm. It never seemed to drop off after peak. It only lost 10 ft lbs over the next 600 rpm after peak torque.
I think with a few changes to the heads and cam it will be a nice package capable of making an honest 700+ hp. It will be a good alternative to my 750 efi, which is 598 ci. This one is quite a bit cheaper to build at only 540 ci. May take the next one to 555 ci.:drink: It's never enough.
Thanks for looking. Enjoy.
Eddie

Dyno pull. Sorry for the poor quality. I forgot the good camara.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K6Q5-KeUBRU

Very nice set up. Simple is always better.

What's ballpark $$$ on these?

100% Complete and ready to drop in your boat with exhaust(CMI E-tops) wiring, sending units, 10 pin Merc plug, motor mounts, bell housing and coupler, etc. is $36,500 (for this particular set up) with a one year warranty. It can be painted any custom color of your choice. The only thing that is not included is the tail pipes, since they are somewhat boat specific. If you can use standard Bravo tail pipes then they run about $750.
Eddie

Good job Eddie, lots of reliable HP.

Eddie

why does a 540 cost a lot less to build..? are the parts that much less expensive?
just curious..

nice engine btw..

It costs less for several reasons. First, you can use a low deck block. A 4.25" crank is usually a little cheaper than a 4.5", but more so, you can use a less expensive brand of crank because you do not have as much rotational mass. I use quite a few Scat cranks in 4.25, but I will not use one in 4.5". It may work fine, but I just won't use it. A 4.25" Scat crank is about $700. but a 4.5" Lunati crank is about $1500. Rod length doesn't change the price much, but I will use a better rod in the 598. Scat, or similar, rods are about $400, but the Oliver billet rods I use in a 598 ci are over $1400. These are just a few examples. Ultimately, it costs a couple thousand dollars less.
Eddie

Nice engne. Who's accesory kit is that on the front? It looks like the one out of the Eikert catalog??

It's from Hardin/Eickert. This is about the 10th version. Every one I get is just a little different than the last. They keep refining it to make it better. It is a really nice package. It's not cheap( about 3K), but I think it is worth the money. Everything is there (bolts, washers, belt, etc) and it alll fits.
Eddie