Originally Posted by BenPerfected (Post 3005963)

Go here:
http://go-fast.com/bam_marine_knowledge_base.htm and click on Speed Calculation. This is the easy way with out doing the math. I can dig out the formula if you want it. Once your boat set up is optimised (balance/drive height/bottom/strake position/etc) this "constant" becomes a fixed/constant for a given boat. What makes speed now is less weight or more HP.
Set up is why RF's boats are fast...he is a master. Today, Fountains better hulls are in the 275+ range.
If you know the boat weight and have Mercury power, it is easy to see what boats are most efficient. Why do some/many boat manufactures not provide accurate weights?...maybe so you can't tell their hull is less than world class.
On our old Scarab, we moved the hull efficiency to 252 from 222 as delivered from Wellcraft....with TRS drives and a hook in the bottom.

Originally Posted by Catmando (Post 3005880)

I thought the same thing. To buy a piece of history like that and then tow it 1500 miles with a 30 year old Ford is sheer lunacy.

Originally Posted by 2112 (Post 3006075)

I just used that calculator. Damn. It hit my top speed right on the nail. :eek:

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Originally Posted by BenPerfected (Post 3006294)

Blue,
The last time I checked (2002), it was 9500 lbs with two people and 30-40 gal of fuel. The hook was part, but the balance was also important. Good balance to me is the boat is stable in flat water with no porpoise at WOT with the drives fully trimmed and the tabs neutral.
The biggest deal/improver was the high X with Bravos....60-80%...oh, and the Imco lowers was big at 4 MPH past 90 MPH.
Three bears,
Hook is when the hull turns down at the transom. You can check yours by putting a long straight edge on the bottom (transom forward). Removing the hook may get you some speed, but you might not like the way the boat rides at cruise.

Originally Posted by 2112 (Post 3006075)

I just used that calculator. Damn. It hit my top speed right on the nail. :eek:

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