No such thing that I'm aware of.
I am ready to make an offer on a used boat (nothing fancy; a 23' Crownline). Does a service similar to Carfax exist for used boats? Google doesn't seem to think so, other than a website named boathistoryreport, which I am unfamiliar with. Thought I'd ask the experts. What say you?
No such thing that I'm aware of.
Best advise I can think of:
1. Leak down test - Not compression
2. Oil sample on your terms being right after a run...
3. drain the drive and run the oil through a paint filter $2 at home depot
4. obvious visual of the bilge. if everything looks neglected then it probably is.
All said, it's still a shot in the dark to a point. The point is relative.
ask for receipts. if it's efi then you could look at rpm history but that's only good if no one ever erased it etc... or bought a new computer..
If you ask enough of the right questions eye to eye you can start to form an opinion of the seller but it's just that - an opinion. Good luck and be savvy.
B - Bend
O - Over
A - And
T - Take it.
Pull the drive off and look at all the rubber. For the kind of boat your're talking about, you can certainly rent often and still be ahead of buying.
You can't get into boating with a strict pencil in your hand.
It's a lot like learning the guts of a computer. You got to get in there and hopelessly screw it all up before you start to figure it out. And the money; well, let's just say that the money has wings!
Hire a qualified surveyor ........
1. Inspect boat for signs of sinkage or water damage and stains inside the interior where water may have been sitting for any length of time. Look for unusual stress cracks excluding the normal ones around radiuses. When most boats sink they incur minor stress cracks that are not consistent with normal operation.
2. Fuel – check contents of filter, ask when last changed, ask how long current load of fuel has been sitting in the tank(s), when was fuel last added?
3. Run engine (preferably under load) and take sample of oil and send to Caterpillar for analysis.
4. Leak down test (not compression) – pull all spark plugs out, inspect them and test cylinder leakage at tdc. Makes notes for % on each corresponding cylinder.
5. If leak test is good for all cylinders, pull of exhaust manifolds for visual of exhaust ports on both, the head and manifold itself. You’re looking for water trails on the inside of the exhaust.
6. Pull drive off and check for rubber leaks. Pull drain plugs out of drive and check magnets. Check color and smell of oil. If present, water will come out before oil does. Check drive coupler and check splines on input shaft for knifing or lack of grease.
7. Inspect the bilge during AND after a run to look for oil leaks, antifreeze leaks, water leaks, broken hose clamps lying in bilge etc.
All the cosmetic stuff including broken door latches, damaged or faded carpet and sun damaged upholstery is also important in terms of what it costs to replace but these things are the very last thing to take interest in. A nice, covered, pretty boat is still very expensive to repair if the above doesn’t look good. This is true particularly for one who can not or does not do his own repairs. Upon arriving to check the boat out, notice if it has been stored with drive all or most of the way up. This stretches out the bellows and leaves them in the fully extended state. They usually die quicker this way. Based on common sense, if the owner did not know this than there are probably other things he didn’t know to do either… This is all just careful opinion. Many will disagree with me.
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