Getting ready to break ground on shop....need opinions.
01-30-2011, 03:33 PM
#81
Registered
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 69
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My end walls are 14ft. and I wouldn't go with anything less. Rollup door is 12ft. tall and 16ft. wide. Building is 15,000 sq. ft. and my house is built inside the building.
01-30-2011, 06:35 PM
#82
Registered
Thread Starter
Just got back my quotes yesterday and believe we are on final design. My newest quote is 55x30 with 14 foot ceilings a 12 foot tall by 18 ft wide door. My future plan is to look at a 38 something boat and then my retirement boat will be a black thunder. Talked to several guys on here that have bts and said they could fit them in 55ft buildings easy. I doubt I will still be using this building then but just incest it's large enough. We are trying to get a permit for the slab now. It will probably be 45 days before I pour more concrete. I just got the crane in and started setting stuff on our new 250x60 slab. Have a lot if trenching and utilities to run over the next 30 days and then should be able to start. I am hoping to be moved in by may. I will post the 3d imaging from the builder once I sign off on the final design 
02-01-2011, 11:27 PM
#85
Registered
Just got back my quotes yesterday and believe we are on final design. My newest quote is 55x30 with 14 foot ceilings a 12 foot tall by 18 ft wide door. My future plan is to look at a 38 something boat and then my retirement boat will be a black thunder. Talked to several guys on here that have bts and said they could fit them in 55ft buildings easy. I doubt I will still be using this building then but just incest it's large enough. We are trying to get a permit for the slab now. It will probably be 45 days before I pour more concrete. I just got the crane in and started setting stuff on our new 250x60 slab. Have a lot if trenching and utilities to run over the next 30 days and then should be able to start. I am hoping to be moved in by may. I will post the 3d imaging from the builder once I sign off on the final design
02-02-2011, 10:19 AM
#87
Registered
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 69
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
On my Ilmors, they are stagger, and the forward motor has taller headers. I have never had any problems with headers on my rear motor, but have on the forward motor with the long tailpipes. i just got through putting a real stout bracing system on the forward exhaust.
02-03-2011, 09:31 AM
#89
Registered
oh and for wall coverings in your part of the country you could prob just use drywall.....in colder regions constantly raising and lowering the inside space temp above and below freezing (dewpoint) will cause drywall to go punky over time....my last house had that prob in the garage the drywall was all bubbly and punky and looked like s hit.....in this shop I used 1/2" chip board with a heavy coat of paint.....its a little "warmer" than metal which is another common choice.
Last edited by pullmytrigger; 02-03-2011 at 09:49 AM.
02-03-2011, 09:58 AM
#90
Registered
Thread Starter
Yes, I switched to a natural gas air forced furnance and returned the electric. Once it came in my electrician told me I needed like 200v service just for my heater lol. So I now have natural gas being run to the shop and will just have to run blower motors. Nice part is it will also run when we have power outages so less chance of freezing the blocks. I will just run a generator to run the blowers.
