Tyler Crockett-Raylar HO600 dyno results
05-26-2011, 08:14 AM
#41
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With the added HP, 660 HP, the Corsa Q&Q is highly discouraged and not recommended at all. It has to be removed and stright pipe run thru the transom. Also there was no issues with the new headers and transom holes lining with the old.....no additional costs to fix .
Last edited by Baja_man; 05-26-2011 at 08:17 AM.
05-26-2011, 08:54 AM
#42
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If you have the choice, run longer risers. It is still a a pretty lopey cam. It doesnt even cost more to do the long risers with Dana exhaust - if it did it was only like $75 more.
05-26-2011, 10:24 AM
#43
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I am not sure long tube headers are required. The dyno results shown are with CMI sport tubes. Also, Keith, which posted earlier in this thread did the same this year, Raylar HO 600, and is running Dana's with no issues.
With the added HP, 660 HP, the Corsa Q&Q is highly discouraged and not recommended at all. It has to be removed and stright pipe run thru the transom. Also there was no issues with the new headers and transom holes lining with the old.....no additional costs to fix .
With the added HP, 660 HP, the Corsa Q&Q is highly discouraged and not recommended at all. It has to be removed and stright pipe run thru the transom. Also there was no issues with the new headers and transom holes lining with the old.....no additional costs to fix .
05-26-2011, 10:56 AM
#44
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Sport Tubes ARE long tube headers! I only use the Quiet mode at idle like in a marina or talking to someone. It also helps prevent any water that might get past the flappers from entering the engine because any water that gets in there drops down the Y pipe. I was going to give it up but my mechanic, Brian, said he can save it and I needed new tails anyway, so...
Last edited by LAriverratt; 05-26-2011 at 11:58 AM.
05-26-2011, 12:14 PM
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That is the only time I wanted to use mine also but still was NOT recommended, seems to be a higher proability of reversion during these times with an aggressive cam. I am sure you are fine with just the stock 525....not sure the exact details of why Ray may be able to help out with this. But with more horespower and trying to force the exhaust thru a 2" outlet at bottom of y-pipe was not good.
05-26-2011, 03:19 PM
#46
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My Q&Q was removed.
That is the only time I wanted to use mine also but still was NOT recommended, seems to be a higher proability of reversion during these times with an aggressive cam. I am sure you are fine with just the stock 525....not sure the exact details of why Ray may be able to help out with this. But with more horespower and trying to force the exhaust thru a 2" outlet at bottom of y-pipe was not good.
That is the only time I wanted to use mine also but still was NOT recommended, seems to be a higher proability of reversion during these times with an aggressive cam. I am sure you are fine with just the stock 525....not sure the exact details of why Ray may be able to help out with this. But with more horespower and trying to force the exhaust thru a 2" outlet at bottom of y-pipe was not good.
05-27-2011, 08:05 AM
#47
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[QUOTE=LAriverratt;3413299]I would have to start something like this late fall and have it back together way before now. there are a couple good shops close to me that I would trust but I've never used them personally so I'm not sure how they are time wise. Our boating season here is long and I would hate to be without the boat for very long plus the tickfaw 200 is the first weekend of may and I sure wouldn't want to miss that one!!
LA – I disagree… You need to start this project NOW! That way you can figure out everything in regards to the set up, props, etc and I can start planning for winter knowing what to expect.
LA – I disagree… You need to start this project NOW! That way you can figure out everything in regards to the set up, props, etc and I can start planning for winter knowing what to expect.
05-27-2011, 10:47 AM
#48
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[QUOTE=Scagburner;3414131]
well I wish I could start now but I need to put a few more hours on my stock set up!!
I would have to start something like this late fall and have it back together way before now. there are a couple good shops close to me that I would trust but I've never used them personally so I'm not sure how they are time wise. Our boating season here is long and I would hate to be without the boat for very long plus the tickfaw 200 is the first weekend of may and I sure wouldn't want to miss that one!!
LA – I disagree… You need to start this project NOW! That way you can figure out everything in regards to the set up, props, etc and I can start planning for winter knowing what to expect.
LA – I disagree… You need to start this project NOW! That way you can figure out everything in regards to the set up, props, etc and I can start planning for winter knowing what to expect.
05-27-2011, 11:17 PM
#49
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I am not exactly sure what header set Tyler used on this dyno test, but I know Wayne had a set of CMI Sporttubes to use on this engine.
Other customers have achieved slightly lower values (640-650HP) with E-Top dyno headers.
As for total cost you are correct that that approximate $15K cost does not include exhaust.
When Raylar does this engine upgrade on a customers Merc 496, we have a 1 year warranty on engine for recreational use only. I am not sure what Tylers warranty is possibly Tyler or Wayne will offer that information.
Best Regards,
Ray @ Raylar
Other customers have achieved slightly lower values (640-650HP) with E-Top dyno headers.
As for total cost you are correct that that approximate $15K cost does not include exhaust.
When Raylar does this engine upgrade on a customers Merc 496, we have a 1 year warranty on engine for recreational use only. I am not sure what Tylers warranty is possibly Tyler or Wayne will offer that information.
Best Regards,
Ray @ Raylar
06-05-2011, 09:55 AM
#50
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The Raylar HO 600's are good engines so far in my boat.
Here they are running a short stretch in Palm Beach
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vsHFQORlfLU
Here they are running a short stretch in Palm Beach
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vsHFQORlfLU
