Thanks guys, I'll check both of those out tomorrow.
I figured this we be pretty easy to find out, but with all stuff I'm reading I want to get this right.
Thank you everyone for the recommendations.
Just because you asked, here are the specs for the HP500 cam. However, as mentioned, I don't think it would be a good choice. You are on the right track. Do it once, do it right. Bob will steer you in the right direction on the cam.
Crane # 169611
Grind # HR 284-2S-10-IG
222/230 @ .050
Let me know if I can help in any way.
Last edited by brivander; 08-10-2011 at 02:07 PM.
I spoke to Tyler, Madera, and Eddie about the "head dilemma" myself.
Although good power can be made with the stock iron heads the
amount of work needed to make them work will be only marginally
cheaper than new aluminum heads set up for your application. I know
my little boat responds favorably to any weight reduction and yours
might also. If and when you decide 500 ponies is not enough the use
of new technology aluminum heads would make the step to the next
level much easier. Have Eddie spec a cam and head combo set-up
properly so all you have to do is bolt them on.
The only thing I'm worried about is the hull, not sure it will be stable at much higher speeds than I was already seeing....
As far as the heads go, you are right, this is the time to go to aluminum heads. You already have to replace all of the hardware in the heads. The problem is that the hardware for the cast iron heads is all different than what you would use in the alum. heads. If you decided in a year that you wanted alum heads, then you would have to buy the hardware all over again. It doesn't cost any more or any less to buy valves, springs, retainers, locks, etc for an alum head than it does for a steel head. It's just different parts. So, right now, you are only out the price of the bare heads in addition to what you are already going to spend. That doesn't include any work that the steel heads need. They may need several hundreds of dollars of machine work (new guides, new seats, bronze liners in guides, valve job, etc) The price difference will get smaller and smaller. Bottom line is that it will cost you way less to do it now then it will later on.
As far as the rotating assembly, I don't have a "package" if you will. Everything we do is done for a particular customer with his or her hp goals, budget, speed goals, etc taken into account. There is no one size fits all. I can get anything that you would like. Ultimitely, it depends on the power you want to make. You may be just fine with the stock 4" crank. However, I would replace the rods. The stock rods are not worth fooling with. We can take the bore up to 4.530 (516 ci). This will also really help unshroud the larger valves in those shiny new aluminum heads. We could easily make 600 hp without having to replace the crank. And do it on cheaper fuel. If you want to run premium, then 625hp or more is possible.
There are tons of options. Give me a shout and we can go over some alternatives.
I disagree, there's nothing wrong with the factory forged rods. If it's going to spin 6000+ I'll upgrade the bolts but that's about it.
Bob Madara can sell you a complete "package" from the ground up, or a cam and valve train to match what you've already got. There's absolutely no problem making 600+ on 89 octane with a 509" motor.
Just out of curiosity Eddie, what kind of dyno do you have at your shop and do you run your motors in full marine trim with wet exhaust?
You right, there is nothing wrong with the stock rods. However, by the time you buy new rod bolts, resize them, balance them, etc. you are more than 3/4 of the way to a set of H-beams. On top of that, you still have a rod with a pressed pin, where as the H-beams have a bushed small end for a floating pin and much stronger cap screws. That's $75-$100 I will spend any day of the week. At no point did I say they wouldnt work. I just said that they aren't worth it.
It's not about strength, it's common sense. For some reason, you feel compelled to argue and disagree with me any chance you get. That's fine. I'm just not sure why. I'm not about to turn this man's thread into a pissing match. If you have a problem with me, then contact me.
Last edited by Young Performance; 08-11-2011 at 11:23 AM.
Not trying to turn anything into a pissing match. The OP sounds like he might need a hone, rings, bearings, and a top end kit. I was just pointing out that there's nothing wrong with his factory rods for that application. He could most likely use everything he's got and spend his money on a decent top end.
I don't mind throwing my 2cents in or correcting anyone and expect the same if I give advice on a forum that could cost someone time and money they don't need to waste. I'm not picking on you but when I see a statement like "your stock rods aren't worth messing with", or when you recommend a gapless second ring for a blower application and say you use them all the time, or tell a guy he's over balanced when he's under balanced, or tell a guy he can use a hydraulic roller on a cam he can't, or you can't do anything with Vortec heads, or... Well you get the picture. Mostly i don't bother posting but sometimes I can't help.
I don't know what it is but I'm starting to like stevesxm more and more everyday and agreeing with most of his posts..
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