chrisf695

iTrader: (3)

With the block being bored 60 over... how will it go when I need to freshing up the rings seals and such? Since its 60 is this that it... im done once I need a rebuild?

Uncle Dave

IF you frag something and it wont hone out at 60 over you're done with your stock block.

Actually though without a new set of heads and a real exhaust you wont get a whole lot out of a bore and stroke job so you wont be getting the most out of the bump in CI's

Guys are talking about water heat here only, but you'll find that without an external oil cooler you will likely overheat the oil quickly on a WOT run. with a hot rod SB you can put big heat into the oil before the water temp even moves..

You'll need to invest in an oil cooler if you go with a 400 and are going to run it hard at all.

Or at minimum pull the recirculating pump off and run a crossover.


Your circle jerk of money starts here....

A week huh? machine work prep and all- thats impressive. We went form no calls back to being finished in a week. Curious to see how this one goes.

My thoughts are if all you are shooting for is 350-360 then just go buy a set of heads and a real manifold and stay away from all the 400 talk.



Uncle Dave

rchevelle71

iTrader: (1)

Honest and true, unless your block NEEDS to be .060, I wouldnt even take the chance for a few extra HP, if you can get away with .030 or less maybe. There is a reason you dont see many 400's in boats, personally I would stroke a 350.

chrisf695

iTrader: (3)

Well they did a sonic test on the block today and came back clean, so the build is on now. Hes going to give me a 1 year warranty on the motor starting when i pick it up the boat.

My uncle said to break it in and then run it pretty hard. He said ill know with in the first couple hours if its going to hold up or not... Is he wrong?

Indy

There isn't one person here that said this was a good idea but you're doing it anyway? I'm not trying to be disrespectful but why did you ask? The members who responded are pretty top shelf IMO. As far as the warrantee goes, that's great and all but if it grenades you're in for a summer of headaches and time off the water. How quick will he get to it too?

Nothing like conservative reliable power when it comes to recreational boating...just a little lesson I picked up after 35+ years of boating.

chrisf695

iTrader: (3)

He will get it to me in 7-10 days... I have a back up 350 that i can stroke if need be. So if indeed this one blows up, then ill just install the 350.

fastdonzi

If it isn't too late I'd still like you to use Longer than stock rods (At least 5.7s) the pistons for the long rods are probably cheaper than the pistons for stock rods (since everyone wants long rods) the long rods will take a whole lot of load off your cylinder walls (if your engine builder doesn't agree "OR" know why, don't use him) they will also free up a bunch of power with no other mods. I'd only bore it enough to clean up the cyl walls, otherwise your next rebuild will be a whole motor build when you could have done just rings. I have built 400's for cars and boats (My 18' Donzi had a 408 with 5.7 rods) and have experienced the woes and wouldn't give you bad advise, only whats gonna help, and help alot

bunky1957

400's don't hold up well in cars. I don't think it's a good idea to use one in a boat, especially at .060 over. Stroking a 350 to 383 only gives up a few cubes and would be a more reliable package.

chrisf695

iTrader: (3)

Yes, hes using 5.7 rods.

Car Biz

iTrader: (1)

IMHO .60 is alittle to far and i would do the 6IN rod


been around 400 SBC for a LONG time.