My compressor took a @#&*
#1
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My compressor took a @#&*
I'm spraying the engine in the yard. Got the primer and both color coats. Time to start mixing the clear. That's when I hear it. The compressor started squeeling. Sounds like the belt is slipping. I run into the garage, and see the smoking mess. I shut her down. Turn it back on and the motor is working fine, but the belt is still slipping. I can't get my hand even close to the compressor head because it's so hot! I pull the dipstick out and it's full and clear. Hoping that it had overheated and was dragging a piston, I started to mist some water on the head. It would instantly boil, but I was despirate. Finally got the temps back down. Turned it back on and the squeel was thankfully gone. Let it run for a while to see if it would build pressure, but no luck. It can't produce more than 40psi. On top of that there is a very loud knocking sound. When I turn it off, it'll coast for a second or two, so there is very little compression. And I still need to shoot the clear! It's supposed to rain for the next two days, so I had to pull the engine back inside. Of course, it's at this time that the garage door decides to jump off the track! Thankfully, I only need to finish this post so I don't have much more time to wreck stuff. Of course, this would be a good opportunity to upgrade to that two stage compressor! Oh, Hon, would you pass me the Grainger catalog?
#2
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Grainger is steep!!!! Man that sucks so did you get the clear on there? There is only a certain amount of time that can go btwn coats before you have to sand before you shoot. Well you got the engine that is good How did it do on the dyno?
Jon
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#3
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Because they are candy coat, I can't resand them, I'll have to reshoot. Tore the compressor apart last night, and it looks like the valve broke and took out a cylinder. Doesn't this sound like a boating problem?
Anyways, the motor dynoed at just below 600hp/630lbft. Would of been nice to break 600, but it was like 100 degrees and 90% humidity in the cell. Besides, if you leaned it out and spun it harder it would have made the power, but I wouldn't see it in the boat.
Anyways, the motor dynoed at just below 600hp/630lbft. Would of been nice to break 600, but it was like 100 degrees and 90% humidity in the cell. Besides, if you leaned it out and spun it harder it would have made the power, but I wouldn't see it in the boat.
#4
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If you hit almost 600 in that heat then I would think you are safe to say 600hp. Plus the torque numbers are right in there Anyhow I am glad that you are moving forward
Jon
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#5
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Two routes for replacement, both of which are a better option than rebuilding the compressor head.
Harbor Freight offers cheapo compressor heads, as well as cast iron Quincy heads. I replaced a 2-stage Powerex (3 cyl cast aluminum) with a cast iron Quincy (2 or 4 cyl, can't remember). The Quincy pump is QUIET and smooth. Cost less than the parts for my Powerex (which needed valves, rings, and one cylinder, one piston, and one connecting rod).
I actually bought the Quincy head from a local jobber, but Harbor Freight offers them about the same price.
Harbor Freight offers cheapo compressor heads, as well as cast iron Quincy heads. I replaced a 2-stage Powerex (3 cyl cast aluminum) with a cast iron Quincy (2 or 4 cyl, can't remember). The Quincy pump is QUIET and smooth. Cost less than the parts for my Powerex (which needed valves, rings, and one cylinder, one piston, and one connecting rod).
I actually bought the Quincy head from a local jobber, but Harbor Freight offers them about the same price.
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Chris288
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08-09-2005 08:45 AM