Rod Bolts...
05-23-2012, 08:06 PM
#21
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05-23-2012, 08:07 PM
#22
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you spun a bearing first,,thats where the blue came from then the rod cap gave out from beating on the crank then the rest is history,,if it were me i would get a complete rotating assembly but with oliver rods
show a pic of a good rod bearing and what mfr name is of the bearing..part numbers woud help also..
show a pic of a good rod bearing and what mfr name is of the bearing..part numbers woud help also..
08-20-2012, 12:56 PM
#23
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Yep seen this before.... Bearing spun then the rod beat the crank till the bolt broke. That is where the heat "BLUE" comes from
It failed becuase the bearing oil clearance was set up WRONG.
Time to find a new engine builder.
It failed becuase the bearing oil clearance was set up WRONG.
Time to find a new engine builder.
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08-20-2012, 05:00 PM
#27
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Did you double check the clearance on the other bearings? I would also be surprised if that crank was not hurt at a mininum needing to be turned.
It looks like it was a little tight or it was not oiling properly.
Hate to see things like this on a new motor
It looks like it was a little tight or it was not oiling properly.
Hate to see things like this on a new motor
08-20-2012, 09:05 PM
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Compstar rods are strong enough for 800hp and 6000 rpms. They also come standard with ARP 2000 rod bolts. I doubt if it was the fault of the rod or the bolts. The bearing spun and the rod eventually grabbed the crank and that's when the bolts let go. What caused it is most likely a bearing clearence issue, poor oiling or detonation pounded out the bearing.
