Rod Bolts...
08-20-2012, 09:45 PM
#31
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08-21-2012, 04:29 AM
#34
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I went to a new shop who got me back running, in about a month and a half. We pulled the other motor so he could go through it also and replaced the rod bolts in it with the L-19's. Motors went in the night before the Lanier Poker run and ran great all weekend.
08-21-2012, 05:40 AM
#35
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If the first guy replaced the L19 bolts for Arp 2000 bolts and didnt resize the rods..... There was the problem. L19 have a higher torque rating and would have been out of round using Arp2000 torque specs... In other words a loose bearing crush.
That is also a very steep rod angle for a blown engine... I would change rods on every refresh!
That is also a very steep rod angle for a blown engine... I would change rods on every refresh!
08-21-2012, 05:48 AM
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Also lots of people dont like the L19 bolts because of hydrogen embrittlement from the oil on your skin or the condensation from the engine..... Probably why the first guy replaced them.
Just another reason to change the rods on a refresh! At a minimum change the rod bolts.
Just another reason to change the rods on a refresh! At a minimum change the rod bolts.
08-21-2012, 06:00 AM
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That is good to hear you are back in action. You were smart to pull the other motor.. I found myself in a similar situation this summer. After one motor exploded with pieces in the bilge I pulled the motor that was still in one piece and found a whole bunch of "issues" that wouldn't have allowed that motor to last much longer either.
08-24-2012, 02:36 PM
#38
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Jack Sparks designed the Carillo rod and helped design the Callies Ultra H beam!
The Callies Ultra H Beam is made in USA and cost around $900 a set - (not the china Compstar Callies Rod)
08-24-2012, 07:18 PM
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I am thinking the same. The end cap saw ALOT of heat from the looks of it. I went trough a motor last year from a lean condition. Latsted a few hours then had alot of knocking going on. NOT GOOD! I feel your pain........
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