Water scum
#11
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I'm pretty sure on off is just muriatic acid they also have a gel that doesn't tear up your lungs as bad all I do is scrub on w a brush let sit for a few seconds and scum line disappears
#12
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Muratic acid in a pump garden sprayer. This eliminates your having much skin contact with it. Just stay up wind of it. Make sure to rinse the trailer VERY well. Muratic will eat bare metal.
#13
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Very limited bare metal on the trailer but I will rinse profusely and constantly. Pump garden sprayer could work but I'm outside so the fumes aren't a major worry. I do want it completely clean if at all possible. Oxylic acid works as well correct?
#14
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Absolutely...
Not!
That is why I said "Only partially off point".
I say your battle to get it bristol again may be for naught and you may need to either tolerate stained or painted/re-gel coated.
The decision to use one cleaner over another is sort of a Chevy/Ford conversation. Some will swear by one while others swear by another and from their experience both are right. Then all of a sudden a Dodge person comes into the debate. The likelihood of any of them defacing the gel any more than has already been done is minimal.
Like me, I am sure you would not be lucky enough for the pattern or depth of coarseness to be what would lessen friction and increase speed. I do remember from what I reviewed the pattern is not random. The dimples on your Baja would be different than on my Valkyrie and maybe useless on my Shamrock.
It will be a wonderful day on the water when someone appears with a new technology that makes the old wind breakers consider something other than just cubic inches!
That is why I said "Only partially off point".
I say your battle to get it bristol again may be for naught and you may need to either tolerate stained or painted/re-gel coated.
The decision to use one cleaner over another is sort of a Chevy/Ford conversation. Some will swear by one while others swear by another and from their experience both are right. Then all of a sudden a Dodge person comes into the debate. The likelihood of any of them defacing the gel any more than has already been done is minimal.
Like me, I am sure you would not be lucky enough for the pattern or depth of coarseness to be what would lessen friction and increase speed. I do remember from what I reviewed the pattern is not random. The dimples on your Baja would be different than on my Valkyrie and maybe useless on my Shamrock.
It will be a wonderful day on the water when someone appears with a new technology that makes the old wind breakers consider something other than just cubic inches!
#15
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Well muratic acid didn't work. Left on for 10-15sec and it didn't make any noticeable difference. It DID bubble and fiz on my driveway (asphalt) so I'm guessing it's still potent...
Last edited by machloosy; 06-18-2012 at 07:56 AM. Reason: Typing while sleepy (kinda like drunk)
#17
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Was it local or salt? I leave mine on for much longer than 15 seconds. I don't think you are going to hurt the hull leaving it on longer, after all it is stored in a plastic bottle....leaving on the trailer long may cause problems tho.
If it was a salt boat get out the scraper.
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Ron,
Sat in the Seneca River May-Sept. I'm going to paint it on as thick as I can handle tonight and then go to dinner and see the results after. I'll wash the trailer off before I leave. If this stuff causes issues on the trailer, how will the outdrive handle it? Obviously same crud covers both the outdrive and the prop. The stainless prop literally feels like its been painted with grit...
Sat in the Seneca River May-Sept. I'm going to paint it on as thick as I can handle tonight and then go to dinner and see the results after. I'll wash the trailer off before I leave. If this stuff causes issues on the trailer, how will the outdrive handle it? Obviously same crud covers both the outdrive and the prop. The stainless prop literally feels like its been painted with grit...