Chasing Electrolysis on Arneson Drives
10-01-2012, 06:31 AM
#1
Chasing Electrolysis on Arneson Drives
I was late getting boat in water this summer becasue of new windshield job. When I did splash I have a terrible case of electrolysis! A white crust will form in only 48 hours and cling all around bolts, hose fittings, clamps, etc. The crust is elsewhere too but not as much. When I pull out of water the stuff is goey like chapstik but turns crusty when dry. Also eating at props.
I have done "trouble shoot" about 5 times. Each time we did someting different. 1. disconnect all 12volt 2. disconnect all 12 volt & 110volt, 3.diffeeent paint 4. search, clean, repair each bonding wire and fitting and all battery fittings 5. Had professional with meter check all bonding and each electrical device on boat (no problem detected). 6. reduce number of zincs Each time I would clean and launch boat it only take 48 hours for crust to come back. This stuff is hard to clean, it clings to metal and requires lot of scraping. I am certain it is eating some metal but not much cause I clean it promptly, but I seel detioration on props, etc.
Problem is much worse closer to transom, back at end of drives not so much. THis is interesting--I have SS clamps around the lift rams for indicators and the stuff loves to cling around those clamps--then I have SS clamps holding the rubber boots around the drives and they are spotless. They are insulated from the metal drive by the rubber boot I guess. There are big supports holding up swim platform attached by lags not thru bolted and they are clean.
The next thing to do is move to another dock. I don't think that is problem cause there are other boats there and they are fine. Plus I shut off all elec to dock and the technicial checked water with meter, but I gonna move anyway.
Any suggestions be much appreciated!!
I have done "trouble shoot" about 5 times. Each time we did someting different. 1. disconnect all 12volt 2. disconnect all 12 volt & 110volt, 3.diffeeent paint 4. search, clean, repair each bonding wire and fitting and all battery fittings 5. Had professional with meter check all bonding and each electrical device on boat (no problem detected). 6. reduce number of zincs Each time I would clean and launch boat it only take 48 hours for crust to come back. This stuff is hard to clean, it clings to metal and requires lot of scraping. I am certain it is eating some metal but not much cause I clean it promptly, but I seel detioration on props, etc.
Problem is much worse closer to transom, back at end of drives not so much. THis is interesting--I have SS clamps around the lift rams for indicators and the stuff loves to cling around those clamps--then I have SS clamps holding the rubber boots around the drives and they are spotless. They are insulated from the metal drive by the rubber boot I guess. There are big supports holding up swim platform attached by lags not thru bolted and they are clean.
The next thing to do is move to another dock. I don't think that is problem cause there are other boats there and they are fine. Plus I shut off all elec to dock and the technicial checked water with meter, but I gonna move anyway.
Any suggestions be much appreciated!!
10-01-2012, 09:11 AM
#2
VIP Member
is it possible/feasible to retro a Mercathode system to the drives? Kinda curious myself, just picked a pair of ASD6's that i would keep like new.
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Throttles- Cleveland Construction 377 Talon
08 OPA Class 1 National Champion
08 Class 1 Geico Triple Crown Champion
08 OPA High Points Champion
10 OPA Class 1 National Champion ( happy now Ed! )
10-01-2012, 09:50 AM
#3
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
I was late getting boat in water this summer becasue of new windshield job. When I did splash I have a terrible case of electrolysis! A white crust will form in only 48 hours and cling all around bolts, hose fittings, clamps, etc. The crust is elsewhere too but not as much. When I pull out of water the stuff is goey like chapstik but turns crusty when dry. Also eating at props.
I have done "trouble shoot" about 5 times. Each time we did someting different. 1. disconnect all 12volt 2. disconnect all 12 volt & 110volt, 3.diffeeent paint 4. search, clean, repair each bonding wire and fitting and all battery fittings 5. Had professional with meter check all bonding and each electrical device on boat (no problem detected). 6. reduce number of zincs Each time I would clean and launch boat it only take 48 hours for crust to come back. This stuff is hard to clean, it clings to metal and requires lot of scraping. I am certain it is eating some metal but not much cause I clean it promptly, but I seel detioration on props, etc.
Problem is much worse closer to transom, back at end of drives not so much. THis is interesting--I have SS clamps around the lift rams for indicators and the stuff loves to cling around those clamps--then I have SS clamps holding the rubber boots around the drives and they are spotless. They are insulated from the metal drive by the rubber boot I guess. There are big supports holding up swim platform attached by lags not thru bolted and they are clean.
The next thing to do is move to another dock. I don't think that is problem cause there are other boats there and they are fine. Plus I shut off all elec to dock and the technicial checked water with meter, but I gonna move anyway.
Any suggestions be much appreciated!!
I have done "trouble shoot" about 5 times. Each time we did someting different. 1. disconnect all 12volt 2. disconnect all 12 volt & 110volt, 3.diffeeent paint 4. search, clean, repair each bonding wire and fitting and all battery fittings 5. Had professional with meter check all bonding and each electrical device on boat (no problem detected). 6. reduce number of zincs Each time I would clean and launch boat it only take 48 hours for crust to come back. This stuff is hard to clean, it clings to metal and requires lot of scraping. I am certain it is eating some metal but not much cause I clean it promptly, but I seel detioration on props, etc.
Problem is much worse closer to transom, back at end of drives not so much. THis is interesting--I have SS clamps around the lift rams for indicators and the stuff loves to cling around those clamps--then I have SS clamps holding the rubber boots around the drives and they are spotless. They are insulated from the metal drive by the rubber boot I guess. There are big supports holding up swim platform attached by lags not thru bolted and they are clean.
The next thing to do is move to another dock. I don't think that is problem cause there are other boats there and they are fine. Plus I shut off all elec to dock and the technicial checked water with meter, but I gonna move anyway.
Any suggestions be much appreciated!!
I have been told, that because a lot of bottom paints have chemicals, and metals in them that will conduct electricity, "Do Not" let paint connect with drives. A lot of boats I see out here have a space (1-2") taped off around the drives and equipment that sticks thru the hull. I am not a rocket scientist but have spent some time in boat repair yards. my.02
10-01-2012, 11:02 AM
#4
Charter Member
DId themarine electirican use a silver chloride half cell probe when checking the amount of protection your zincs are providing?
Do you have a galvanic isolater in your green ground wire in your shorepower wire before your boats AC/DC panel?
Are you using a marine battery charger or a regular automotive charger?
Yes, many bottom paints can't be applied up to any of your alum drives parts, need that 1" space.
Do you have a galvanic isolater in your green ground wire in your shorepower wire before your boats AC/DC panel?
Are you using a marine battery charger or a regular automotive charger?
Yes, many bottom paints can't be applied up to any of your alum drives parts, need that 1" space.
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Some people are like Slinkies - Not really good for anything, but they
bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.
Some people are like Slinkies - Not really good for anything, but they
bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.
Last edited by US1 Fountain; 10-01-2012 at 11:05 AM.
10-01-2012, 12:06 PM
#5
I got satern talking to this morning from a paint rep at interlux. He said improper paint use may not be all of the problem, but at least part. HE basically said if u gonna use our product why not use it right! So now gonna strip entire drives, lift & steering rams, etc. 5 coat with special metal primer and 2 coat micron csc. The odd thing is I have had this boat since 1989 and last summer and this one only times I can remember with this problems (then again memorry is probably good for 1 year at best). I learned the hard way on a commercail paint job that products u buy today greatly differ from what u bought years ago. Maybe similar with marine paint.
Anyway I gonna start on this asap and quite chasin the electrolysis for a bit cause I have covered so much stuff already. Should h ave painted and back in water few days will post. Still up for hearing any suggestions especially if it relates to bronze or arneson drive issues in salt water
Anyway I gonna start on this asap and quite chasin the electrolysis for a bit cause I have covered so much stuff already. Should h ave painted and back in water few days will post. Still up for hearing any suggestions especially if it relates to bronze or arneson drive issues in salt water
10-01-2012, 04:09 PM
#6
CSC has copper and shouldn't be applied over aluminum, nor in contact with al. Leave a 1" space around perimeter. Interlux has a antifouling paint made just for drives and such that comes in a spray can...Trilux I believe is the name.
__________________
Some people are like Slinkies - Not really good for anything, but they
bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.
Some people are like Slinkies - Not really good for anything, but they
bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.
10-01-2012, 06:58 PM
#7
I have used the tri-lux on trim tabs because they are alum. But the drives are bronze with some stainless hardware. No alluminum. With all this trouble I gonna follow instruction to the letter. should have primer this week. I know my memory is shot but I have had this boat 20+ years and only this summer and last did I have this problem (I think?) Anyway as soon as painted I be back in water (maybe by friday). I got canvas guys on boat this week. If they b done by weekend maybe time for a fall cruise!
10-01-2012, 07:57 PM
#8
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you or your neighbors could have a bad ground going to their pier or boat is not grounded properly..i had a friend that had the same this going on and it was his neighbors electrical hook up did not have a proper grounding rod...the electrician pounded 2 into the ground and comed did somthing at the pole..
