Build my 598 procharged motor
12-12-2012, 08:05 PM
#21
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I would stick with 4.500 bore, gives you room to clean things up if you have a ring or piston issue, and more sealing area for the head gaskets. Tall deck if you want to stroke it. I wouldn't worry about displacement, boost will make up for it. I would get billet caps, you're going to be running WOT for long periods of time, not just for a few seconds like an automotive application. I would build a solid long block, probably a 540, with some good heads sourced from a reputable engine builder, regardless of brand, and let them hand build them with top level parts. And why not just use your M3 to begin with, make sure your Hull/ Drive/ Prop are fully dialed before you throw on the bigger blower and really turn it up.
12-12-2012, 08:21 PM
#22
Gary, how many hours do you get between rebuilds and how much time is in boost vs driving around mellow. Theres 2 kinds of guys normally,ones who drive around easy cruising with the occasional 1/2 -1 mile wot pass and guys who hold it at wot for 10 miles+, I used to be the guy that held it in boost forever and have transitioned into more of the other kind the last few years, Smitty
12-12-2012, 08:48 PM
#23
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Sounds like you did some cool procharger builds though!
12-12-2012, 08:48 PM
#24
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12-12-2012, 09:07 PM
#25
Problem is, for guys who run the ocean, or great lakes, with big heavy vee bottoms, wot for 1/2 mile normally don't cut it. Need to be able to go wot for 10 miles. Then again, this build in a small checkmate, don't think that will be a issue.
Sounds like you did some cool procharger builds though!
Sounds like you did some cool procharger builds though!
12-12-2012, 09:09 PM
#26
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12-12-2012, 11:31 PM
#28
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Probably 95% of what we build are 598's. The bigger bore really lets the afermarket heads, with their big valves, flow better. Of course, everyone has their preferences and theories. This is what works great for me. I use Merlin III blocks instead of the Darts. With a MerlinIII block bored to 4.600, you still have a minimum of .300 of wall thickness and siamese bores. I've never had an issue with bores distorting. It may happen with a GM GenVI block set up with big power, but I haven't had it happen with the Merlin III.
I would use the billet main caps at that power level. They are WAY more cap than the nodular iron caps. It's cheap insurance when building an engine of this caliber. I use them whenever the build is going to exceed about 1100 hp or so. I would also go for a little better crank then the Dragonslayer. Callies makes some good pieces, but the Dragonslayer is a Chinese forging that is machined in the US. I would go with the Callies Magnum, which is a Japanese forging (probably the best forging out there). Lunati is what I use and can't say enough good things about them. Buy the best parts that you can buy. It's a little extra on the front side, but you don't want to have to buy it all twice.
You should be able to easily hit your target hp with the other parts you mentioned.1200 hp is pretty easy these days. Good luck, and let me know if I can help in any way.
Eddie
I would use the billet main caps at that power level. They are WAY more cap than the nodular iron caps. It's cheap insurance when building an engine of this caliber. I use them whenever the build is going to exceed about 1100 hp or so. I would also go for a little better crank then the Dragonslayer. Callies makes some good pieces, but the Dragonslayer is a Chinese forging that is machined in the US. I would go with the Callies Magnum, which is a Japanese forging (probably the best forging out there). Lunati is what I use and can't say enough good things about them. Buy the best parts that you can buy. It's a little extra on the front side, but you don't want to have to buy it all twice.
You should be able to easily hit your target hp with the other parts you mentioned.1200 hp is pretty easy these days. Good luck, and let me know if I can help in any way.
Eddie
12-12-2012, 11:37 PM
#29
12-13-2012, 05:53 AM
#30
