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Any good wax sold locally?

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Any good wax sold locally?

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Old 12-24-2012, 10:23 AM
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Originally Posted by 82predictor
x3 on the Collinite Fleet wax! Only do a small section at a time, it is very hard to get off if it is on too long! This stuff lasts the longest, the one for cars is actually called permanent wax and still beads up after 8-10 months! I think advance auto parts sells collinite. For the boat make sure you get the paste fleet wax. They also make a fiberglass cleaner that works well to remove light oxidation or stains.
Thanks I will try this on the boat. Don't wan't wax on the bottom. So i'm going to try nufinsh on the bottom.
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Old 12-24-2012, 08:04 PM
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The finish is actually in pretty good shape and has a good shine. I'm just waiting on parts to finish my new 509 and looking for something to do so I can keep playing with the boat while waiting for parts. I saw that collinite at west marine and the guy there rcommended it. He said apply by hand and take it off with the the high speed buffer.

Thanks for all the responses.

Merry Christmas
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Old 12-24-2012, 08:38 PM
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Collinite is such a pain to put on/take off. Used it for the first time last year it was so much harder to get rid of the yellow water stains too. Its like it bonded with the stains .
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Old 12-24-2012, 11:32 PM
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If youve not seen it, take a look at Wenol brand polishes. Their designed for metails, but work great on Fiberglass/gel coat

They used to make a Pink too, but it's discontinued and very difficult to locate now. Glanol is their new line.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GLANOL-Wenol...item2ec1c3f037
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Old 12-25-2012, 01:27 AM
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If its bad with water stains I'll steer clear of that.
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Old 12-25-2012, 07:17 AM
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Wizard Turbo Cut and 3M Marine Wax. Great combination.
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Old 12-25-2012, 07:47 AM
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Originally Posted by cp5899
The finish is actually in pretty good shape and has a good shine. I'm just waiting on parts to finish my new 509 and looking for something to do so I can keep playing with the boat while waiting for parts. I saw that collinite at west marine and the guy there rcommended it. He said apply by hand and take it off with the the high speed buffer.

Thanks for all the responses.

Merry Christmas
Obviously that guy didn't know much about detailing. Yes, you can apply Collonite (or just about any other "wax") by hand. But removing it with a high speed buffer is counter productive. If you apply a wax by hand and then remove it with a buffer using either foam or wool pads, you'll remove the wax all right. You'll totally remove it and have nothing to show for your efforts. High speed buffers are for correction work, not wax application.

Speaking as one who's done more than a little detailing, here's my advice. Keep it simple and avoid power tools unless you start with something relatively mild like a Porter-Cable 7424XP. ALthough it doesn't have the power of a full rotary buffer, it also doesn't get you 10 miles deep into trouble. And you can use it to apply a wax. For removal, either use microfiber towels by hand or buy a cheap random action polisher with a terry or microfiber bonnet.

As for actual "waxes", both Collonite and Nu-Finish are very decent products. Collonite is a little harder to get off though.
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Old 12-25-2012, 08:46 AM
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Originally Posted by 4bus
My favorite, without question. http://www.meguiars.com/en/automotiv...ech-waxreg-20/

I agree with offshoreex, if you have oxidation the waxing will help but will not be uniform or have an optimal shine.

You should not use a high speed 7" and a wool pad for waxing! In fact, you should not use wool at all if you are a novice at buffing.

You can use a soft finshing foam pad on the lowith a west setting of the buffing to apply the liquid wax, but still I would not recommend it.

If you are looking for a safe way to do a light cut, light a machine glaze, then apply and remove wax machine you want this http://www.autogeek.net/porter-cable-7424-kit.html but I doubt you will find it local. One of my favorite tools by far.
I bought two bottles of NXT to try after using Rejex for years. After one application I ended pitching the remainder 1 3/4 bottles. At least for me it didn't work well at all. I couldn't get it buffed out to a clear sheen, it just wanted to leave faint streaking in it that was apparent when in the sun. I use micro fiber towels to buff so not sure if that had anything to do with it or not. After a couple washings it still had the streaking, so I stripped it off and went back to Rejex.

Rejex wouldn't work for this boat as it has no bite to it. Works great on new stuff though.
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Old 12-26-2012, 01:37 PM
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Nufinish = Rejex. The staining you may see after Collonite application is actually where the boat is actually oxidation or dirt in the pores of the gel. Collonite sells a cleaner specifically made to prep the surface for optimal adhesion by removing light oxidation or grime trapped within the pores of the gel. If you do not want to use it, make sure to wash the surface and remove any previous coatings with isopropyl alcohol. The application process is also somewhat different. Apply a very thin film on the surface then buff off before it hazes. Sometimes it does outgas(haze) after wiping which can be cured by spraying ice water and wiping it clean with a microfiber. I don't know why anyone would tell you to apply and remove wax with a rotary that's just retarded sorry lol.
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Old 12-26-2012, 01:55 PM
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Btw I've been giving the new Harbor Freight dual action a beat down at my shop and it hasn't skipped a beat yet. 3 weeks of heavy correction work and not a single hiccup. Not bad for $50.
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